Count and Denier Made Simple

Yarn count, simply said, is a measure of the fineness of a yarn. Thus it gives an estimation of how thick or thin a yarn is. We can also measure the diameter of the yarn and express it in inches etc. However, the yarn is not exactly circular in cross section. Also most yarn are soft and compressible and hence the moment we apply some scale etc, it gets deflated. 

A method, which is popular in cotton yarns, is to measure the length of a particular weight of yarn. Thus the yarn which has more length will be finer than the other yarn which has less length of the same weight. For cotton yarn this particular weight is one pound, and the length is measured in 840 yards. Thus a cotton yarn has one count, if we measure the length of one pound of this yarn, and it comes out to be 840 yards. If it comes out to be 1680 or 2 x 840 yards for one pound of weight, we call it as a yarn with 2s count and so on. Generally thick shirtings are in the range of 30s count, medium weights are in 60s count and finer weights in 80s count. 

For cotton the length is taken as 840 yards and weight as one pound. For Linen, the length is 560 yards. Thus the yarn of a linen is of count 20 if in one pound there is 20 x 560 yards of length. 

Now, in real world, we come across with two yarns twisted together. If we twist two yarns of 40s count, we call  the yarn as that of 2/40s count. If we twist 3 yarns of 60s count, we call it as a yarn of 3/60s count. 

A method which is also popular in silk is to weigh a particular length of the yarn. In this system, the yarn which has less weight of the same length than some other yarn will be finer than the other yarn. Commonly this is called denier. In denier system, the unit of weight is grams and that of length is 9 km. Thus if a silk yarn weighs 24 grams of 9km of length this is said to be of 24 denier. 

The General Relation ship between count and denier is given by the fact that no of deniers is equal to 5315 divided by no of counts thus if cotton is of 30s count then it will be of 5315/30 or 177.66 deniers. 

Simply speaking, more the count, finer is the yarn. More the denier, coarser is the yarn. 

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going do? You should go join the Forum.

How to Identify Fekwa ( Fekva), Katrawan and Kardhwan Techniques and Designs

These Techniques are frequently used in supplementary extra weft figuring in Varanasi brocades and Chanderi saris. Here is a brief description of the techniques:

Fekva ( Fekwa)

When the extra threads are picked from one border of the fabric to the other, the threads appear on the face of the fabric in the design portion and float on the back of the fabric in the remaining portion. If the fabric is comparatively thick, the floats on the back of the fabric are allowed to remain in the fabric and technically the design is called “fekwa”. Thus in a Fekwa or Fekva design, one can see the long floats at the back of the fabric. 

Katrawan or Katravan

If the fabric is comparatively fine and the spaces between the figures are required to appear transparent, the floats at the back of the fabric in such spaces are cut off. In these fabrics, care is taken to see that the extra figuring threads are properly bound (interlaced) with the ground warp near the edges of the figures, so that when the floats at the back of the fabric are cut off, the remaining portion of the threads forming figures do not become loose. The design is technically called a katrawan design.

Kardhwan Designs

In the fabric in which figures are brought out by extra weft by means of tillies (spools), each of which work only on the restricted warp threads in the corresponding place, manipulated from one side to the other, no float appears at the back of the cloth between figures. The design is technically called kardhwan design.

One can get more information here.

Now that you've finished reading this post, what are you going do? You should go join the Forum.

Chikankari-Kaudi Work

Chikankari Stitches- Murri, Ghas Patti, Pechni

Notes on Chikankari

There is an amazing report on the process of Chikankari done by Ms. Neha Sharma of NIFT Mumbai. I am reproducing the various stitches representing Chikankari. The source is given below.

1. In Chikankari untwisted thread of cotton or tussar is used

2. The process of  Embroidery is as follows

a. Cutting
b. Stitching
c. Stitching
d. Printing
e. Embroidering
f. washing




Printing is done with Synthetic Indigo and emulsion of synthetic gum.

There are three types of embroideries

1. Flat Stitches

a. Tepchi

This is a running Stitch



b. Janjira

Chain stitch is used as the outline



c. Khatao

White on White Applique work, gives different opacity



d. Rahet

It is a stem stitch worked with six threads on wrong side of the fabric. Forms a solid line of back stitch on the right side of fabric.



e. Gitti

Mainly blanket stitch with buttonhole stitch is done to create circular pattern in the form of wheel like motif.



f. Turpai and Darzdari





2. Embossed Effect

g. Murri

Oval Shaped French knot



h. Phanda



i. Ghas Patti



3. JAALI

j. Jaali



k. Hool

Fine detached eyelet stitch.



Source: Please click here or get it from here.