Cotton Vs. Linen

Comparison of Properties of Cotton and Linen 

Linen is Stronger

Linen is the strongest of the vegetable fibers and has 2 to 3 times the strength of cotton. Linen table cloths and napkins have been handed down generation to generation.

Linen is Smoother

Not only is the linen fiber strong, it is smooth, making the finished fabric lint free. Fine china, silver and candles are enhanced by the luster of linen which only gets softer and finer the more it is washed.

Wrinkles more easily than Cotton

Linen does wrinkle easily but also presses easily.However, constant creasing in the same place in sharp folds will tend to break the linen threads. This wear can show up in collars, hems, and any area that is iron creased during the laundering.

Not As Elastic

Linen has poor elasticity and does not spring back readily.

Touch is Different

Cotton is softer, fluffier, and warm to the touch. Linen is smooth, heavy and flowing, and feels cool because it absorbs moisture more readily than cotton.

Cotton is Easier to Rip

Since flax fibres are longer than cotton fibres, cotton is easier to rip.

Pure Linen Vs.Linen/Cotton Blend

Cotton/linen - a little softer, and won't wrinkle as much as pure linen.

For shirts, cotton/linen is great

Pure linen is not bad, necessarily, but it is stiffer and also hard to find in really light weights. The thickness of most pure linen does not lend itself to dress shirtings well.

For jackets and trousers, pure linen is better  

How to Dye Using Indian Natural Dyes

To Dye the Fabric with natural dyes, we proceed as follows:

Tanning

1. Take 20% Harda powder on the weight of material.

2. Make into a smooth paste , add about 10 liters of water.

3. Soak the fabric in this bath for 10-15 minutes.

4. Work it well and dry.

5. After drying remove the extra unfixed harda powder by brushing.

Mordanting

1. Take about 200 gms of alum or 50 gms of Potassium Dichromate or 200 grams of copper sulphate accoding to the color desired.

2. Add 20 liters of water

3. Mix well

4. Enter the Harda Treated material into the dyebath and work well

5. Keep of 10-15 minutes

6. Squeeze and wash once in plain water to remove excess of mineral salt.

Developing

Please see the "Developing of Color" Section of the article "How to Print Using Indian Natural Dyes" .  

Major and Minor Defects in Garment Production-2

Assembly Defect

Major Defects

1. Finished Components not correct to size or shape or not symmetical

2. Finished garment not to size.

3. Measurements not within tolerance.

4. Parts, components, closures or features omitted ( i.e. Belt loop, snap or button)

5. Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

6. Interlining incorrectly positioned twisted, too full, too tight, cockling

7. Garment parts, cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness.

8. Garment parts shaded or shading in fabric.

Minor Defects:

1. Loose Thread not removed

Defects in Sulphur Dyeing

Defects in Sulphur Dyeing

1. Tendering

Tendering in the fabric takes place because sulphur is converted into sulphuric acid after oxidation which is harmful for the cellulosic fibers. This defect can occur on account of not proper washing of the fabric after dyeing which results in retaining of sulphuric acid on the cloth.

2. Uneven Dyeing and Oxidation Marks

This may occur due to:

a. Lower strength of sodium sulphide

b. Using improper amount of sodium sulphide.

c. Sodium sulphide does not wash off fully after washing.

d. Variation in temperature.

e. If colors are not dissolved properly, or colors are not of good quality

f. If the chemical used for oxidation is not of good quality

g. Fabrics are not worked upon properly at the time of dyeing.


3. Bronziness

This defect normally occurs in heavy shades. Given below are the reasons:

1. More time gap between dyeing and washing

2. Using more of less strength sodium sulphide

3. Using more salt.

4. Oxidiser doesn't get washed off properly during washing

5. Sodium sulphide doesn't get washed off properly during washing.

6. More presence of iron and copper ions in water.


4. Poor colorfastness to rubbing

It depends upon:

a. type of color
b. Lower strength of sodium sulphide
c. Poor absorbency of the fabric
d. Fabric is not washed properly
e. The quality of soap used for washing is not proper
f. Dyeing bath made of iron instead of steel
g. Frequent addition of colors and chemicals
h. Using Cationic finishing agent in finishing also lowers the colorfastness to rubbing
i. Improper color solution, Improper material to liquor ratio etc.

5. Roughness in Fabric

1. Using more amount of sodium sulphide that doesn't get washed off during washing.
2. Heavier shade
3. Improper washing
4. Not using anionic softening agent in finishing
5. Not using wetting agent.