Major and Minor Defects in Garment Production-2

Assembly Defect

Major Defects

1. Finished Components not correct to size or shape or not symmetical

2. Finished garment not to size.

3. Measurements not within tolerance.

4. Parts, components, closures or features omitted ( i.e. Belt loop, snap or button)

5. Components or features wrongly positioned or misaligned

6. Interlining incorrectly positioned twisted, too full, too tight, cockling

7. Garment parts, cockling, pleated, twisted, showing bubbles and fullness.

8. Garment parts shaded or shading in fabric.

Minor Defects:

1. Loose Thread not removed

Defects in Sulphur Dyeing

Defects in Sulphur Dyeing

1. Tendering

Tendering in the fabric takes place because sulphur is converted into sulphuric acid after oxidation which is harmful for the cellulosic fibers. This defect can occur on account of not proper washing of the fabric after dyeing which results in retaining of sulphuric acid on the cloth.

2. Uneven Dyeing and Oxidation Marks

This may occur due to:

a. Lower strength of sodium sulphide

b. Using improper amount of sodium sulphide.

c. Sodium sulphide does not wash off fully after washing.

d. Variation in temperature.

e. If colors are not dissolved properly, or colors are not of good quality

f. If the chemical used for oxidation is not of good quality

g. Fabrics are not worked upon properly at the time of dyeing.


3. Bronziness

This defect normally occurs in heavy shades. Given below are the reasons:

1. More time gap between dyeing and washing

2. Using more of less strength sodium sulphide

3. Using more salt.

4. Oxidiser doesn't get washed off properly during washing

5. Sodium sulphide doesn't get washed off properly during washing.

6. More presence of iron and copper ions in water.


4. Poor colorfastness to rubbing

It depends upon:

a. type of color
b. Lower strength of sodium sulphide
c. Poor absorbency of the fabric
d. Fabric is not washed properly
e. The quality of soap used for washing is not proper
f. Dyeing bath made of iron instead of steel
g. Frequent addition of colors and chemicals
h. Using Cationic finishing agent in finishing also lowers the colorfastness to rubbing
i. Improper color solution, Improper material to liquor ratio etc.

5. Roughness in Fabric

1. Using more amount of sodium sulphide that doesn't get washed off during washing.
2. Heavier shade
3. Improper washing
4. Not using anionic softening agent in finishing
5. Not using wetting agent.

How to Print Using Indian Natural Dyes

General Procedure

1. Tanning of Fabric with Myrabolan Powder

If myrobalan powder is taken

a. Take 200 gms of Myrobalan powder for 1 kg of fabric

b. Make a smooth paste with water, without any lumps

c. Add water till it becomes 5 liters.

d. Mix well

e. Soak the fabric in this

f. Work the fabric in this solution at room temperature for 15 to 20 minutes.

g. Squeeze the material and dry it in shade.

h. When dried, remove the unfixed material by striking it against wall.



2. Preparation of Thickening Agent

Using Tamarind Seed Powder

a. Add 100 gms of Tamarind seed powder in 1 liter of boiling wter.Sprinkle the powder in the boiling water stirring to avoid lumps.

b. Cook and mix till a fine paste is ready, cool it and filter the contents.

c. Remember that this paste is stable only for 2 to 3 days.

Or

Take Bhagvathi gum, add 30 to 50 gms of powder for 1 liter of water. It is also soluble in cold water.

This paste has better stability

Avoid Gum Arabic.

3. Mordanting the Solution with Mineral Salts

Take the mineral salts according to the following formula:

x parts of mineral salts
15 to 20% boiling water
70% thickening agent
to make it 100%.

The following are the general guidelines for getting the dark shades.

Alum= 10%, available by the name of Fitkari
Potassium Dichromate= 5%, available as Lal Kashish
Copper Sulphate= 10%, available by the name of mor Thuth
Ferrous Sulphate= 1 to 5%, available by the name of Hira Kashish
Iron Solution = 50%

Iron solution is made by the following procedure:

a. Take 2 kg of Iron Pieces, 1 to 1.5 kg of Jaggery and add 20 liters of water.

b. Keep in a plastic container for 3-4 weeks

Tin Chloride= 0.5 to 1.0 %

The Procedure for making the paste is:

a. Ground the mineral salt into powder form.
b. Add water and boil.
c. When completely dissolved, add the thickening agent.

The paste is ready for the printing process

4. Printing

Now Print the fabric using blocks. Dry and wash as follows:

5. Washing

 When washing in river keep the printed portion face down so that it touches water. Wash for about 5 to 10 minutes, printed portion is not touched. Care should be taken that printed portion should not touch the unprinted portion.

After washing, dry in flat on the ground. Dont hang. Now the fabric is ready for developing.


6. Developing of Color

Fabric is developed using traditional material. For yellow ranges Pomegranate rind ( Anar ka Chilka) or Forest Yellow (Amba Haldi) 50% or Moduga flowers ( Desuda phool) are taken. For Pinks to reds maroons Alizarin(0.5% with 10-20% Dhavdi flowers added to dye bath), Mnajistha(25-50%) is taken, for grey ranges: Rathanjoth(30% to 50%), Ferrous Sulphate is taken, for brown range: catechu ( Katha) and its componets are taken.

 Powder the dye and mix and boil with water for 3-4 boils. Filter it. Make a dye bath with material to Liquor ratio of 1:20 at 50 deg C. Add the solution in it. Enter the fabric ( already mordanted ) in it. Work well and raise the temperature to boil. Dye for 30-40 minutes. Wash and soap. Dry in shade.

Major and Minor Defects in Garment Production-1

Some very good definitions of Major, Minor and Critical Defects can be found Here.

Major, Minor and critical Defects are the part of classification given to the flaws while inspecting the fabrics or garments.The classification depends upon the severity of the defect and forms a basis of acceptance or rejection of the lot.

Consideration in classifiying the defects as major or minor is taken on the basis of the affect on saleability of the garment, location of the defect and conspicuousness of the defect.

In this document , the location of the defect( the zone) is shown in various garments which make a defect serious or insignificant. There is also a comprihensive list of the critical defects.
An analysis of Fabric defects according to their severity as major or minor can be found in this document.

This document is in the form of a contract but it deals brilliantly with all the quality issues including the defects.

The Following is an indicative list that can be followed to ascertain if a defect is a minor or a major defect in a garment:

Seam and Stitching

Major Defects:

1. Stitch Requirements
a. Inside 8-10 SPI
b. topstitch 8.9 SPI
c. Other requirement as specified

2. Seam grain
3. Thread breaks
4. Feed damage
5. Excessive amount on skip stitches ( 2 or more)
6. Pleat in seam (other than required by style)
7. Poorly repaired seams
8. Broken stitches two or more if conspicuous.
9. Conspicuous needle damage hole.
10. Open seam raw edges or frayed materials
11. Uneven stitch density, staggered stitch
12. Too many stitches giving rise to jumping and rupture of fabrics and few to grinning and weak seams
13. Wrong stitch density
14. Run off stitch.
15. Omitted sewing i.e. top stitch, button hole, snap, velcro etc.
16. Serious, uneven edge of seam ie bottom of waistband, right to left seam matching, pocket mouth etc.
17. Double stitching and poorly repairs affecting the appearance and service.
18. Improperly formed stitch or loose tension of stitches causing loops on surface easily pulled out.
19. Stitch tension which breaks under normal stress.
20. Wrong colour match thread
21. Napped fabric-cut or sewing in the wrong direction or mixed in the garment causing shading.
22. Wrong seam type or stitch type used
23. Blind stitching showing on the face side.
24. Reverse garment parts.
25. Extraneous part caught in seam.
26. Mismatched seam.
27. Mismatched checks or stripes
28. Any twisted, loosen, tighten, puckered or pleated or overlapped seam.
29. Irregular or incorrect shape of sewing line "run-offs"
30. Incorrect or uneven width of inlay i.e. seams burst open, raw edges show slippage of weave threads.