Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Thursday, 4 June 2009
How to Identify Constituent Fibre Percentage in a Blend-2
Blend of Acrylic with Wool, Silk, Cotton, Viscose, Polyester or Nylon
1. Dissolve the acrylic fibres with (Dimethyl Formamide - DMF). Acrylic Fibres will dissolve in DMF.
2. Filter, rinse and weigh carefully to get the ratio of Acrylic Fibres.
Blend of Protein Fibres ( Wool or Silk) with cotton, polyester, nylon or acrylic
1. Take the blended fibres ( Carefully weighed) in a conical flask.
2. Add a solution of 5% (w/w) solution of Sodium Hydroxide or Potassium Hydroxide and boil for 10 minutes. Protein fibres will dissolve in Sodium Hydroxide or Potassium Hydroxide.
3. Rinse the leftover fibres with water and neutralise with dilute Acetic Acid.
4. Weigh the fibres after drying and find the ratio of protein fibres.
Blend of Polyester with Cotton or Viscose
1. Weigh the blend and heat it with Meta cresol. Polyester fibres will dissolve.
2. Weigh the residual fibres after rinsing thoroughly and drying and find the percentage of polyester fibres.
Blend of Elastane ( Spandex or Lycra) with Cotton or Viscose
1. Treat the blend with DMF. Elastane will dissolve in DMF.
2. Filter, Rinse, dry and get the weight of residual fibres to get the percentage of elastane.
Wednesday, 3 June 2009
How to Identify Constituent Fibre Percentage in a Blend-1
How to Identify Constituent Fibre Percentage in a Textile Blend
Textile fabrics are often made from blends of two or more fibres. A polyester-cotton shirt, a polyester-viscose fabric, or a cotton-viscose blend may look like a single material to the eye, but its behaviour during dyeing, finishing, washing, shrinkage, comfort, strength, and costing depends heavily on the actual fibre composition.
For this reason, textile laboratories use quantitative fibre analysis to determine how much of each fibre is present in a blend. In simple terms, one fibre component is dissolved using a suitable chemical reagent, while the undissolved residue is filtered, washed, dried, and weighed. From the change in weight, the percentage of each fibre can be calculated.
Table of Contents
- Why Fibre Percentage Identification Matters
- Basic Principle of Chemical Fibre Analysis
- General Precautions Before Testing
- Polyester/Cotton or Polyester/Viscose Blend
- Cotton/Viscose Blend
- Polyester/Cotton/Viscose Blend
- Quick Calculation Table
- Practical Points to Remember
- Related Reading
- Sources
- General Disclaimer
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Why Fibre Percentage Identification Matters
Knowing the fibre composition of a textile blend is important for production, merchandising, dyeing, quality control, costing, product labeling, and customer communication. A fabric declared as polyester-cotton, for example, may behave very differently depending on whether the blend is 65:35, 80:20, or 50:50.
Polyester and cotton also require different dyeing and finishing approaches. Polyester is hydrophobic and is commonly dyed with disperse dyes, while cotton is hydrophilic and is commonly processed with dye classes suitable for cellulosic fibres. Viscose is also cellulose-based, but it has different wet strength and chemical behaviour compared with cotton.
Basic Principle of Chemical Fibre Analysis
The basic principle of quantitative chemical analysis is selective dissolution. A known weight of the blended sample is treated with a reagent that dissolves one component while leaving the other component mainly unaffected. The remaining fibre residue is then separated, washed, neutralised if required, dried, cooled, and weighed.
The percentage of the undissolved fibre can be calculated as:
\[ \text{Percentage of residue fibre} = \frac{\text{Dry weight of residue}}{\text{Original dry weight of sample}} \times 100 \]
The dissolved fibre percentage can then be calculated as:
\[ \text{Percentage of dissolved fibre} = 100 - \text{Percentage of residue fibre} \]
In actual laboratory practice, correction factors may be required because the fibre remaining as residue may still lose a small amount of weight during chemical treatment. These correction factors should be applied according to the relevant standard method or laboratory procedure.
General Precautions Before Testing
Before quantitative analysis, the fibres present in the blend should first be identified by suitable qualitative methods such as microscopic examination, burning behaviour, solubility behaviour, or other standard fibre identification methods. Quantitative analysis should not be started blindly on a completely unknown sample.
The sample should also be free from non-fibrous material such as size, oil, wax, dirt, resin, finishing chemicals, coatings, or other additives. These substances can affect the sample weight and may lead to incorrect percentage calculation. If present, they should be removed by a suitable pre-treatment method before chemical analysis.
1. Polyester/Cotton or Polyester/Viscose Blend
In a polyester/cotton or polyester/viscose blend, the cellulosic component can be dissolved using sulphuric acid under controlled conditions, while polyester remains as the residue. Cotton and viscose are cellulose-based fibres, whereas polyester is more resistant to this treatment.
Method
- Take approximately 0.5 to 1.0 gram of the blend sample and weigh it accurately.
- Place the sample in a clean flask and add 75% by weight sulphuric acid.
- Maintain a material-to-liquor ratio of about 1:200 so that the sample is properly immersed.
- Keep the flask in a water bath for about one hour at approximately \(50 \pm 5^\circ C\).
- Filter the contents carefully. The residue left on the filter is polyester.
- Wash the polyester residue thoroughly with water and neutralise it using dilute ammonia solution.
- Dry the residue at approximately \(110^\circ C\), cool it in a desiccator, and weigh it accurately.
The dried residue gives the polyester content. The remaining percentage represents the cellulosic component, either cotton or viscose depending on the original blend.
Calculation
\[ \text{Polyester %} = \frac{\text{Dry weight of polyester residue}}{\text{Original dry weight of sample}} \times 100 \]
\[ \text{Cotton or Viscose %} = 100 - \text{Polyester %} \]
Example
If the original dry sample weight is 1.000 gram and the final dry polyester residue is 0.650 gram, then:
\[ \text{Polyester %} = \frac{0.650}{1.000} \times 100 = 65% \]
\[ \text{Cotton or Viscose %} = 100 - 65 = 35% \]
Therefore, the blend is approximately 65% polyester and 35% cotton or viscose.
2. Cotton/Viscose Blend
Cotton and viscose are both cellulose-based fibres, but their chemical behaviour is not identical. Viscose is regenerated cellulose and is generally more easily attacked by certain reagents than cotton. In this method, viscose dissolves and cotton remains as the residue.
Method
- Take approximately 0.5 to 1.0 gram of accurately weighed sample.
- Place the sample in a flask and add 60% by weight sulphuric acid.
- Maintain a material-to-liquor ratio of about 1:100.
- Stir the solution mechanically for about 30 minutes.
- During this treatment, viscose dissolves and cotton remains.
- Filter the cotton residue and wash it thoroughly with water.
- Neutralise the residue with dilute ammonium hydroxide solution, wash again, dry, cool, and weigh.
A correction factor is important in this method because cotton may lose some weight during the treatment. A commonly used correction mentioned for this process is about 5% weight loss for cotton. Therefore, the observed cotton residue weight should be corrected before calculating the final blend percentage.
Calculation With Cotton Correction
If cotton loses approximately 5% during the process, the corrected cotton weight can be calculated as:
\[ \text{Corrected cotton weight} = \frac{\text{Observed cotton residue weight}}{0.95} \]
Then:
\[ \text{Corrected cotton %} = \frac{\text{Corrected cotton weight}}{\text{Original dry sample weight}} \times 100 \]
\[ \text{Viscose %} = 100 - \text{Corrected cotton %} \]
Example
Suppose the original dry sample weight is 1.000 gram and the observed cotton residue after drying is 0.475 gram. The corrected cotton weight is:
\[ \frac{0.475}{0.95} = 0.500 \text{ gram} \]
Therefore:
\[ \text{Cotton %} = \frac{0.500}{1.000} \times 100 = 50% \]
\[ \text{Viscose %} = 100 - 50 = 50% \]
After applying the correction factor, the blend is approximately 50% cotton and 50% viscose.
3. Polyester/Cotton/Viscose Blend
A polyester/cotton/viscose blend contains one synthetic fibre and two cellulosic fibres. The analysis is done in stages. First, viscose is dissolved using 60% sulphuric acid. The remaining fibres are cotton and polyester. Then cotton is dissolved using stronger sulphuric acid, leaving polyester as the final residue.
This step-by-step separation allows the three components to be estimated separately. The first weight loss gives viscose, the final residue gives polyester, and cotton can be calculated by difference.
Method
- Take an accurately weighed dry sample of the polyester/cotton/viscose blend.
- Treat the sample with 60% by weight sulphuric acid. Viscose dissolves under this treatment.
- Filter, wash, dry, cool, and weigh the remaining cotton and polyester residue.
- Treat this residue with 75% sulphuric acid. Cotton dissolves under this treatment.
- Filter the final residue carefully. Wash thoroughly, neutralise if required, dry, cool, and weigh.
- The final residue is polyester. Cotton is calculated by difference after accounting for viscose and polyester.
Calculation
Let:
\[ W_0 = \text{Original dry sample weight} \]
\[ W_1 = \text{Dry weight after dissolving viscose} \]
\[ W_2 = \text{Final dry polyester residue} \]
Then:
\[ \text{Viscose %} = \frac{W_0 - W_1}{W_0} \times 100 \]
\[ \text{Polyester %} = \frac{W_2}{W_0} \times 100 \]
\[ \text{Cotton %} = 100 - \text{Viscose %} - \text{Polyester %} \]
Example
Suppose the original dry sample weight is 1.000 gram, the dry weight after dissolving viscose is 0.700 gram, and the final polyester residue is 0.400 gram. The blend percentages are calculated as follows:
\[ \text{Viscose %} = \frac{1.000 - 0.700}{1.000} \times 100 = 30% \]
\[ \text{Polyester %} = \frac{0.400}{1.000} \times 100 = 40% \]
\[ \text{Cotton %} = 100 - 30 - 40 = 30% \]
Therefore, the blend is approximately 40% polyester, 30% cotton, and 30% viscose.
Quick Calculation Table
| Blend | First Dissolved Component | Residue Obtained | Main Calculation |
|---|---|---|---|
| Polyester/Cotton | Cotton | Polyester | Polyester % = residue weight ÷ original weight × 100 |
| Polyester/Viscose | Viscose | Polyester | Polyester % = residue weight ÷ original weight × 100 |
| Cotton/Viscose | Viscose | Cotton | Corrected cotton weight may be required before percentage calculation |
| Polyester/Cotton/Viscose | Viscose first, cotton second | Polyester final residue | Viscose by first loss, polyester by final residue, cotton by difference |
Practical Points to Remember
The accuracy of fibre percentage analysis depends on careful sampling, accurate weighing, complete dissolution, complete washing, correct neutralisation, and proper drying. Even a small error in drying or weighing can affect the final percentage, especially when the sample weight is small.
Chemical analysis is different from a simple burning test. A burning test can help identify the probable fibre type, but it cannot reliably provide the percentage of each fibre in a blend. For blend percentage, controlled quantitative analysis is required.
Correction factors should not be ignored. The fibre left as residue may still lose a small amount of weight during the chemical process. If a standard method prescribes a correction factor, it should be applied before reporting the final blend composition.
Related Reading on Fibre Identification and Textile Testing
Sources
- ISO 1833-1:2020. Textiles — Quantitative chemical analysis — Part 1: General principles of testing. International Organization for Standardization. https://www.iso.org/standard/74881.html
- Bureau of Indian Standards. IS 3416:1988 / IS 3416 Part 1: Method for quantitative chemical analysis of binary mixtures of polyester fibres with cotton or regenerated cellulose. https://law.resource.org/pub/in/bis/S12/is.3416.1988.pdf
- Bureau of Indian Standards. IS 3416-1:1988 Amendment: Sulphuric acid method for polyester with cotton or regenerated cellulose. https://law.resource.org/pub/in/bis/S12/is.3416.1.1988.pdf
- Japan Customs. Textile Analysis: Natural or Chemical Fiber? https://www.customs.go.jp/ccl/e_etc/3.htm
- AATCC. Textile Research, Test Methods, and Standards Development. https://www.aatcc.org/
General Disclaimer
This article is intended for textile learning and general technical understanding. It is not a substitute for an accredited laboratory test report, official standard method, or professional chemical safety training. The procedures mentioned involve strong chemicals such as sulphuric acid and should be performed only by trained personnel in a properly equipped laboratory with suitable safety precautions, ventilation, neutralising arrangements, and personal protective equipment.
FAQ in textile dyeing
Here is an amazing site to answer the following ( and many more) frequently asked questions on Dyeing:
Which dyes are more lightfast?
How can I fix non-reactive dyes
Is there anything I can do to "set" the dye on purchased fabric?
How can I dye spandex (or Lycra or elastane)?
How can I dye nylon?
How can I dye rayon?
How can I dye satin or charmeuse?
How can I dye polyester?
What are mordants? What's the difference between mordants and other dye chemicals?
What is soda ash? What's it used for?
What temperature should the soda ash be?
What is the effect of pH? What is the optimal pH?
What is urea for? Is it necessary?
What is the effect of temperature?
Should I use distilled or spring water instead of tap water?
Do I need to use salt?
How are thickeners such as alginate used with dye?
How do you use Silk Salt or other large salt crystals to make bursts of color?
Help! I ruined clothing by spattering bleach. How can I fix it?
How do you "bleach" a screen print on a t-shirt?
Can you tie dye something that is already dark?
How can I neutralize the damaging effects of chlorine bleach?
What chemicals can be used to remove dye?
Which Procion MX dyes discharge the best? Which are good at resisting chlorine bleach?
Which Procion MX dyes are pure, and which are mixtures?
Which MX dyes at one supplier are the same as those at another?
How can I mix Procion MX dyes to get specific colors?
What is in Procion type dye powder?
What other brand names are Procion MX type dyes sold under?
What do the letters and numbers in the code name for a Procion MX type dye mean?
Which Procion MX dyes discharge the best? Which are good at resisting chlorine bleach?
Which Procion H dyes are pure unmixed colors, and which mixtures? How do they compare from one retailer to another?
Which Wash Fast Acid dyes are pure, rather than mixtures?
What are Kiton Levelling Acid Dyes?
My colors just washed out! What happened?
My colors are not very bright. What did I do wrong?
Why are there specks of color all over my fabric?
Why did the thread stay white when I dyed clothing?
How do you tie-dye a star or mandela pattern?
How do you tie-dye a spiral?
How do you tie-dye letters of the alphabet?
How can I tie-dye a peace sign?
How can I dye clothing or fabric in the washing machine?
Can I paint on clothing with oil paints?
Can I screenprint with a dye resist?
How do you tie-dye socks?
Is it safe to eat or breathe fiber reactive dyes?
Which dyes are the safest? Which are the most dangerous?
Aren't natural dyes always safer than synthetic dyes?
Is all-purpose dye safer than fiber reactive dye?
Polyvinyl Chloride- Manufacturing Process and Properties
Polyvinyl Chloride (Vinyon)
Fibre Manufacture:
Vinyl Chloride is the principal raw material from which polyvinyl chloride is made by addition polymerisation. There are two methods commonly used for the production of vinyl chloride:
1. Ethylene+ chlorine--> Ethylene Dichloride--600 deg C--> Vinyl chloride +HCl
or
Cl-CH2-CH2-Cl--300deg C +Charcoal--> Vinyl Chloride + HCl
or
Cl-CH2-CH2-Cl--CH3OH+NaOH (60 deg C)--> vinyl Chloride + NaCl+ H2
2. Acetylene +HCL--150 deg C, HgCl--> CH2=CHCl (Vinyl Chloride)
Polymerisation
the vinyl chloride monomer is polymerised in the emulsion form in an autoclave at a pressure of 50 Atm and at a temperature of 65 deg C. A suspension of the polymer is obtained which is then spray dried.
Spinning
This may be done by dry spinning or wet spinning.
1. Dry Spinning: In the dry spinning process the polymer is dissolved in a mixture of CS2 and acetone, filtered and pumped at 70 deg to 100 deg through spinnerettes into a chamber, provided with heated walls, and into which air is introduced. The solvent evaporating from the extruded filaments is carried away by the air. At the bottom of the chamber the solvent free filaments are removed through a fine orifice and wound on a bobbin. The solvent is recovered and used again. the filaments are stretched to ensure that the molecular chains get oriented and the fibres become stronger and attain less extension at break, increased brightness, transparency etc.
2. Wet Spinning: In the wet spinning process, PVC is dissolved in THF (Tetra Hydro Furon) to give a highly concentrated solution, which is spun into water, through a stretch spinning funnel. The filaments ar stretched and cut into staple fibres.
Properties
1. Tenacity: Wet or Dry: 2.7-3 gpd
2. Elongation at BreaK: Wet or Dry: 12-20 %
3. Moisture Content: 0
4. Specific Gravity: 1.4
v. Effect of Heat: It contracts at temperatures above 78 deg C and shrinks to half its original length at 100 deg C.
vi. It has an excellent resistance to sunlight. It is completely resistant to insects and microorganisms. It is inherently non-flammable.
vii. It is exceptionally resistant to caustic soda, nitric acid and sulphuric acid. It has outstanding resistance to many chemicals including bleaching agents, reducing agents.