Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Wednesday, 17 December 2008
Specific Gravity of Fibres
Acetate= 1.33
Acrylic=1.17
Glass=2.50
Nylon=1.13
Polyester=1.38
Rayon=1.52
Alpaca=1.31
Angora=1.10
Camel hair=1.31
Cashmere=1.31
Cotton=1.54
Linen=1.50
Flax=1.50
Hemp=1.50
Jute=1.50
Mink=1.26
Mohair=1.31
Ramie=1.55
Silk Weighted= >1.60
Silk - B. Mori (raw)= 1.33
Asbestos=2.1
Silk Tussah=1.32
Wool= 1.31
shrinkage norms for 14.5 oz. denim
Length wise shrinkage--> after 3rd wash---> -1.2% to -2.8%
Width wise shrinkage --> after 3rd wash--> -2.5% to -3.5%
Hard waste % in denim industry
Hard Waste % in Denim Industry
Warping--> 0.7%
Unsized Yarn--> 0.4%
Sized Yarn--> 0.6%
Fringe--> 1.7%
All these above are percentage of Hacoba Production
Knotting + Reknotting waste --. 0.7%
Extra ends--> 0.7%
All the above are as percentage of loom shed production
Total Hard Waste= 4.8%
Tuesday, 16 December 2008
Impact of rotor machine variables on yarn quality
Impact of Rotor machine variables on Yarn Quality
On increasing rotor speed
1. Centrifugal force (g.tex) increases
= (w^2 x 0.981)/20000, w= pi x D x N
where D= Rotor dia in meters
N= rotor rev/second
so there is better fiber consolidation and better strength
2. Combing roll efficiency will reduce , fibres get deposited in rotor groove in bunches and not in single file and so strength reduces.
3. Hooks will get less time to straighten
4. Number of wrapper fibers will increase
5. Also yarn elongation decreases at higher rotor speed
On increasing rotor diameter
a. % wrapper fibres = l x 100/ pi x D
where l= effective length of fibres used
so as D increases, % reduces so strength increases
b. No of doublings inside the rotor
pi x D x TPI
so evenness and imperfection reduces, strength increases
c. Reduction in spinning in coeficient at higher rotor diameter. This leads to weaker yarn.
d. Higher power consumption
PC ( Watts) = K n^2.5 D^3.8
n--> rotor speed ( rev/min)
D--> rotor dia in mm
k--> a constant
e. Yarn elongation decreases at higher rotor diameter
On Increasing Draft
Increasing draft will increase fibers breakage due to increase in the value of carrying factor (ie. no of points per fibre) optimum should be 120-150
Combing roll speed should be around 6000-8000 rpm
Design of Doffer tube
Grooved tube permits yarn to be produced at lower twist factor but poor fiber orientation and high short term variability.
Affeect on Twist
Higher twist: Elongation increase, and abrasion decreases
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