Orissa is rich with its textile heritage. As depicted by the picture above, a diversity of traditional textile products are obtained from the region. Saris in particular find a new language here. A variety of sarees from Ikat to traditional Jaala ( simplified jacquard) can be obtained from here. Here is a brief outlook of the various traditional clusters.
1. Pitala Cotton Sarees
These are simplest sarees from Orissa and are used in the daily work. These are characterized by a simple Ikat pattern at the border, pallu and butis in the body.
2. Berhampuri Silk ( Patta) Saree with Phoda Kumbha
Phoda Kumbha is a technique of producing temples at the border with the help of three shuttle technique.
These Sarees are produced by Bangalore Silk ( 2-4 ply organzine) in the warp and Malda Silks ( 4-8 ply Charkha Silks).
3. Dhalapathar Sarees
Please have a look at this link.
4. Bomkai Sarees
Bomkai Cotton and Silk Sarees are known by the elaborate thread work. These can be compared to the Balucahris of Bengal.
5. Nuapatna Tie-Dye or Khandua Sarees vs. Sambalpuri Sarees
Nuapatna sarees are also known as Khandua Sarees.
These sarees are characterised by the characteristic ikat patterns. The main difference between Nuapatna and Sambalpuri sarees is that the sambalpuri sarees have more elaborate and dense Ikat patterns, thereby making them more clostly. Also Sambalpuri Silk Sarees Use Mulberrry x Mulberry yarns ( 3 ply x 3 ply) and thus have a weight of 650 to 700 grams. Nuapatna Silk sarees use 2 Ply Bangalore x 3 ply Malda Silk with a weight of 380-450 grams.
In cotton Sambalpuri Sarees the count is about 2/120s x 2/140s or 2/120s x 2/120s with a reed and pick of 72 and 76. Whereas in Nuapatna it is 2/100s x 2/100s, 2/80s x 2/80s or 2/100s x 2/80s with reed and pick of 64 and 72. One warp for Sambalpuri is only 2-4 sarees; whereas for Nuaptna, it is upto 30 sarees.
Nuapatna Cotton
Sambalpuri Cotton
6. Pasapalli Sarees
Pasapalli Sarees are those woven in the town of Bargarh. They have patterns inspired from those of chess board. The weave is used as Double Ikat in the typical Sambalpuri Style
7. Habaspuri Sarees
The design of Hawaspuri sarees are inspired from the designs of Kalahandi.
8. Dongria and Siminoi Sarees
9. Tussar Ghicha Saree
Apart from this, Gopalpur village specializes in making Tussar Ghicha sarees, with temples at the border created by tye-dye techniques. The Pallu has usually Ikat horizontal patterns, either in Sambalpuri or in Nuapatana styles.
