Effect of Width
Width affects consumption. This is very important in case of
ethnic fabrics as most of them come at a width which is either lower or higher
than the one contracted. As the fabric is dyed using local methods and dried in
the air, it is impossible to control width or variations of widths over length.
We’ll take some cases of the fabric.
When working with block prints on cotton, the fabric is
usually mill and often powerloom. It is prepared locally at the printer’s for
printing. Sometimes width contraction happens to full 10 inches. This happens
specially in case of voile with lower constructions (92 x 80). It is useful to
calculate the consumption under various width and issue out the fabrics based
on that.
Width problem also occur in prints on powerloom cambric,
mull or Mangalgiri. Due to different shrinkage treatment at the processing
stage after weaving, sometimes after washing width reduces to an unequal
amount.
Greige fabric, if dyed in dark colors is subject to full
mercerization, shrinks the fabric widthwise, sometimes to a considerable extent.
Weft Ikat has a special problem with regard to width, the
cuttable width is about 2 inches less than the actual width. Because of
problems with tyeing the weft yarn, the actual Ikat motif start one inches
inside the actual width.
The best way to control is to take the min. width of the
whole lot and work out consumption based on that width. Or different thaans can
be issued out at different consumptions.
Lots of pintucks are woven widthwise, which means that stripes come in the weftwise direction. To make them suitable for mens or women's garments bigger widths are chosen on loom. Similarly in heavy silk fabrics, bigger widths are chosen as the stripes run in the weft.
Woollen shawls and stole present a particular problem as the best of the stripes come in weftwise direction.
Width poses no problems when working with silks or woolens.
