My New Book- Fabric Structure Simplified on Amazon.com

Fabric Structure Simplified

A Step by Step Approach

A Book By

Priyank Goyal

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This book takes the reader through intricacies of understanding fabric structure from a very beginner level. It covers all basic weaves such as plain, twill,satin and their derivatives.  

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Product Details File Size: 3859 KB Print Length: 196 pages Simultaneous Device Usage: Unlimited Publisher: Priyank Goyal; 1 edition (September 6, 2014) Sold by: Amazon Digital Services, Inc. Language: English ASIN: B00NDTNOF8 Text-to-Speech: Enabled  X-Ray: Not Enabled  Lending: Not Enabled Download Here Most of the books on this subject are written in a manner which the beginners particularly from a non textile background found difficult to cope with.  This book is written keeping the language of the subject matter simple and easy to understand.  Download Here

What is the Difference between Carbonized Polyester Printing and Brasso Printing on Polyester

Both these techniques are widely used in Saris and dress material in India

Image Courtesy: www.indusdiva.com

Carbonized Polyester Printing

In the carbonization process the cellulosic component of the polyester/ cellulosic blend is dissolved by treating the fabric with 70% sulfuric acid along with small quantities of sulphamic- acid and urea, with the result one gets 100% polyester fabric with very soft handle. It is advisable to use polyester rich blends to avoid the problem of slippage. To produce the carbonized polyester prints initially the cloth is printed with the disperse dyes.

Disperse dye - x parts

Ammonium sulphate (or citric acid) - 3-5 parts

Sodium chlorate - 1 -2 parts

Thickening (guar gum) 600-700 parts

Water - y parts

Total - 1000 parts

Print, dry and fix by steaming at 130C for 30-45 min. The fabric is then be washed, reduction cleared

and carbonized. The carbonization process can be carried out either by a batch process in a jigger or by a pad-batch method. In the jigger the fabrics are treated for 30-40 min ( 2-4ends) at room temperature. The fabric is then washed and neutralized. A mild bleaching treatment may be given to improve the whiteness of the prints.

Brasso or Cut-out Style

 This style involves localised dissolution of the cellulosic component at printed portion by printing the polyester /cellulosic fabric with acid liberating salts. The fabric is initially printed with:

Aluminium Sulphate - 200 parts

Water. - 100-200 parts

Citric acid - 20-30 parts

Wetting Agent(acid stable) - 10-20 parts

Glycerine - 50-70 parts

British gum (1: 1) - x parts

Total - 1000 parts

Print, dry, bake at 130-145'C for 3 to 5 min. 

The goods are then thoroughly washed  a winch to remove the

degraded cellulosic component.  a winch to remove the degraded cellulosic component. Bleaching may be carried out to get better whiteness. 

Cellulase enzyme treatment can also be done to get this effect, as it hydrolizes the cotton componetn. In the case of cotton rich blends, the traces of cellulosic part remain on material and therefore more severe enzymatic treatments are required. The acidic cellulase enzyme is the best suitable for this application. The same principle is used in brasso style of printing in which cellulosic portion is removed from the polyester-cotton blend material after printing. the advantages of carbonization using cellulase enzymes are: 1. The process is non-corrosive and non hazardous 2. Less wear and trea of machines 3. Eco friendly process 4. No separate curing is required as in conventional brasso printing. v. No adverse effect on the print color and feel of the fabric.

Source: http://www.ril.com/downloads/pdf/process_guide.pdf 

Why Polyester POY have such a craze in Indian Ethnic Wear

Polyester POY

POY / PFY is largely used in shirtings and suitings, sarees, ladies’ dress material, and knitwear. It is preferred in men’s wear due to its higher crease recovery, wrinkle resistance, better drape, longer retention of prints and colours, and better abrasion as compared with competing fibres, such as PSF, VSF and NFY. 

The use of POY / PFY in sarees has increased due to the development of crimping, twisting, texturising and wet processing technologies. These technologies offer more flexibility in designs and patterns. Moreover, these technologies help increase the air permeability of these yarns. As a result, the fabric would be able to absorb more moisture. 

It is also used in applications, such as soft luggage and specialty fabrics. POY is sold by producers to the texturising units. The texturising units process it and sell it to weavers (largely in the powerloom sector). Unlike PSF, PFY is not blended with cotton by blended yarn producers, since it is in the filament form and not in the fiber form. However, in the powerloom stage, PFY can be woven with other yarns. 

POY / PFY is a substitute for cotton and other synthetic yarns. POY / PFY has a number of advantages over its substitutes. 

These advantages include:

 Better Properties: POY / PFY is more durable, does not fade on exposure to sunlight or soap, has better abrasion resistance, drape and crease recovery properties, and is wrinkle resistant

 Price Competitiveness: Since the 1990s, POY prices have declined significantly, largely due to the decline in the landed costs, on account of decline in the import duty

FULLY DRAWN YARNS

Normal Partially Oriented Yarn (POY) needs to be necessarily texturised before being used for making fabric whereas FDY, as the name of the yarn itself indicates, is drawn fully during the process of spinning itself and therefore does away with the requirement of texturising and can use directly for making fabric.

FDY is generally used for better quality fabric. As the process of texturising is avoided, FDY yields higher contribution as compared to the normal POY.

The following are the properties incorporated during texturing of FDY:

Low Intermingle Yarn

These  are comprised of high modules mono filaments. The range is highly popular because the entanglement spacings in these yarns are relatively low and the tenacity remains relatively unaffected.

Non Internmingle Yarn

Non Intermingle Yarn is known for their minimal entanglement spacings and hence it facilitates easy use.

High Intermingle Yarn

These yarns are commonly used for making fabrics. The range can be availed in different Deniers depending upon the requirements of the clients.

Some Notes about Fittng and Ease in a garment

Garment Fitting

Garment Fitting is how well the garment conforms to the wearer’s body. It is influenced by fashion trends, personal preferences, the usage and the function of the garment.

Five Elements of Garment Fitting

Five elements are used to evaluate the fitness of the garment. They are grain, set, balance, line and ease.

Grain 

Garments must be cut on grain. The lengthwise grain of the fabric must run parallel to the length of the body and the crosswise grain must run perpendicular to the body. Otherwise, garments will not hang straight. The seamlines may twist.

Set
The garment with good set will be worn smoothly on the wearer’s body without any set
wrinkles. Set wrinkles are always found on the oversize or undersize garments.

Balance 
The good garment must look symmetrically balance at the front or back view. The centre lines of the garment and the body must be aligned. Unbalanced garments worn unevenly on wearers will show poor postures.

Line 
The structural lines of the good garments must follow the natural lines of wearers. Out-of-line garments will show poor postures and wearers will not feel comfortable.

Ease 
Ease refers to the amount of roominess in a garment. Garments require adequate ease to provide sufficient room for body movement and show the designed style. Lack of ease will effect the movement of wearers.


About Ease

Ease is the measurable difference between measurement of the body and measurement of the garment.

The garments have two types of ease:

1. Wearing ease
2. Design Ease

All garments must contain wearing ease to allow for movement and livability. You cannot alter the garment based on this ease.

Wearing ease follows the basic rule that the wearer must be able to move bend, breathe, sit, raise arms and walk without the garment being overpulled, pinched, binded, stretched or strained beyond a natural relaxed position.

Rigid fabrics are hard and stiff. They require more wearing ease than stretch fabrics. Stretch fabrics may require less comfort allowances.

Design Ease defines the silhouette. It is over and above the wearing ease.

Fitted body has only wearing ease. The design ease gets added as the silhouette moves from semi fitted to slightly fitted to loosely fitted.

Some Wearing Ease Criteria

(I)

Women

1.5 to 2" wearing ease at bust
3/4" to 1" wearing ease at waist
2"-2 3/4" wearing ease at hips

(II)

Some people say that There is a minimum wearing ease that is 6 cm in the bust area, 2 cm in the waist and 4 in the hips

(III)
Areas to Add Wearing Ease (Smaller Figure) Larger Figure
Bust/Chest (2) 4
Waist/Belly/Underbelly (2) 4
Hips (2) 4
Thigh/Calf (2) 2 - 3
Upper Arm/Forearm/Wrist (2) 2

(IV)

Type of Garment Chest/Bust Ease Allowance
Shirt /Blouse 10~14 cm
Jacket 16~24 cm
Coat 20~28 cm

(V)



(V)

Mens

Fitted shirts: 1 1/2" to 2 1/2" wearing ease through the chest
Classic or standard shirts have - 3" ease
pants: 3/4" or 1" ease at the waistline
Pants : have 1 1/2" wearing ease through the seat.
Pants: must have min. 1" wearing ease through the thigh

According to Burgo (1998), there are three variable factors that determine ease allowance:

a. Silhouette- whether regular, fitted or loose.
b. Positioning of clothing with respect to proximity to the surface of the body
c. Thickness of the material (with thicker material, the fabric in the seam allowance occupies space and reduces ease)

As per positioning, there are five different degrees:

a. Zero Degrees- Clothing worn directly in contact with skin, e.g. underwear.
b. First Degree- Clothing worn directly on top of underwear
c. Second Degree- Clothing on top of the first degree
d. Third Degree- Very heavy weight clothing.
e. Fourth Degree- Clothing with lining such as fur and quilt.

Based on that the following tables gives the ease amount used for various degrees: