Finish Used in Tussar Fabric and Matka

* Tussar is generally finished using Glycerine

* Matka is finished either by using Arraroot Size or by using a combination of Calatex and Paniyala ( both local names in Bhagalpur) followed by glazed finish. 

Difference between Spun Muga and Matka

Spun Muga ( as it is popularly called) is made up of spun tussar. Matka, however is made up of spun mulberry silk. 

Spun muga is also popularly called as Moonga or Munga. It is known by 72/1 D in India. However it is actually 68Nm/1. It is obtained from Chinese tussar after spinning it on ring frame with a twist per meter of about 676.

Generally it is obtained in hanks. 

It is not to be confused with Muga silk obtained from Assam region in India where the species is different. 

 

 

 

Care Instructions for some of the Traditional Cotton Printed Fabrics

Dabu, Ajrak and Khadi Printing

1.  Hand wash in cold water with mild soap, hang to dry and
press with a dry iron.

2. Machine wash in gentle cycle with
cold water and mild soap, do not put in dryer.

Silver and Gold Foil Block Printing

1. Do not wash or do not dry clean. Silver and Gold Leaf will tarnish and spoil if laundered.

2. Store these precious items in a cool dark place with leaf facing inward.

3.Rolling  is  preferable  to  folding  with  acid  free  tissue  or unbleached cotton between layers of cloth.

Hand Dyed and Block Printed

1. Hand wash in cold water with mild soap, hang to dry and press with a dry iron.

2. Machine Wash in Gentle Cycle with cold water
and mildsoap, do Not put in Dryer.

3. SILK Dry Clean Only

Cotton Bandhini

1. Hand wash in cold water with mild soap, hang to dry and
press with a dry iron.

2. Machine wash in gentle cycle with cold water and mild soap, do not put in dryer


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Common Printing Defects in Screen or Roller Printing

The following printing defects are frequently observed in screen or roller printing:

1. Scrimp

 During the printing process the fabric sometimes creases under one of the screen during the printing process. Thus the pattern is printed on the top of the screen. When the crease is removed, it leaves a large area of the fabric unprinted.

2. Misfit or Out of Registration

 A misfit is a defect caused when screens are not properly aligned. The misaligned screens can leave an area unprinted or cause the pattern overlap on one another.

3. Stick-in

A stick-in occurs when a small fiber or yarn get stuck in one of the screen openings. It can result is a small unprinted circle in the design of the size of the tip of a pen. A stick-in is very  difficult to see and often go unnoticed.

4. Wicking or Flushing

It occurs when the printed area bleeds out into the unprinted area. This results in a "haloing" or shadowing effect around the outline of the pattern design. Wicking is often caused by residual salts left in the fabric during  resign finishing or during fabric preparation.

5. Doctor Streak

It refers to a wavy white or colored streak in the fabric in the warp direction. It is called so because it is caused by damaged or improperly set doctor blade in the printing machine. A doctor blade is a metal knife that cleans or scrapes the excess dye from engraved printing rollers, leaving dye paste only in the valleys of engraved areas.

6. Mottled

It results from the color applied unevenly during printing

7. Printing Machine Stop

As a result of printing machine stop the dye sometimes is smudged along the width of the fabric.

An excellent description of defects in digital printing can be found here.

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