Warp Cover Factor in Khadi

Shirting 11 ± 10%

Bed sheet 11 ± 10%

Do suti 11 ± 10%

Dhoti/Sari 9 ± 10%

Cotton coating 12 ± 10%

Poly shirting 11 ± 10%

Poly coating 12 ± 10%

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Colorfastness Parameters for Khadi

How to Use Pick Glass

Pick Glass is used to determine the reed and pick in woven fabric. Reed is actually number of ends or number of warp threads per inch and by picks we mean the number of picks or number of weft threads per inch.  The following procedure is based on IS 1963: 1981 method:

Sampling

1. Avoid sampling within 50 mm from the selvedge.
2. Within two metres from either end of a piece or roll.
3. While sampling from design fabrics it is convenient to:
a) Determine the number of units in a weave repeat from a point paper diagram.
b) Count
i) The number of whole repeats
ii) The remaining units, in the distance across which the threads are to be counted.
iii) From the above data so obtained, the number of threads per centimetre or inch
both in warp way or weft way as required can be calculated.

Procedure

1. Keep the test sample on a flat table and smoothen it out.
2. Set the pointer of the counting glass at zero.
3. Place the counting glass on the fabrics in a direction parallel to warp if weft density is to
be determined and parallel to weft if warp density is to be determined.
4. Find the number of warp or weft threads in a specified length as required.
5. Following the procedure prescribed in steps 1 to 4, determine the number of warp and
weft threads per centimetre or inch in at least four more places.
6. Calculate the number of warp or weft threads per centimetre or inch by the following
formula: n = N ÷ L
Where
n = number of warp or weft threads per centimetre (or inch),
N = observed number of threads in the distance L, and
L = distance in centimetre (or inch) across which the threads are counted.

7. Calculate the mean of all the values and report it as the number of warp or weft threads
per centimetre or inch of the fabric.

Note: Avoid counting same set of warp or weft threads more than once. The value should be
rounded off to first decimal place in case when the results are reported for threads per cm.

An excellent tutorial on how to analyse a fabric using pick glass is found here.

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500 count Khadi

A master weaver from Murshidabad, Kalicharan Sharma, had re-discovered the technique of spinning the fine yarn a few years ago, and Saha learnt it from him. Making the 500-count muslin sari— a 5.5 metre saree requires 60,000 metres of yarn to make—is a laborious process that takes more than two months for a team of three weavers. “Making muslin is a very sensitive and lengthy process that takes loads of patience. The yarn breaks frequently. Spinning is done only early mornings and after dusk. The heat during the day breaks the thread. Earlier, very young girls aged about ten years or so would spin the yarn with their nimble fingers. I’ve modified the charkha to replicate those nimble fingers. I’ve modified the apron, rubber rollers, gears and other parts of the machine. I’ve also re-invented the original technique of weaving muslin,” he says.

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