Spirality and Skew in Single Jersey- Causes and Remedies

This question is posted in a discussion by one of the readers:

I need a solution to control the skew and spirality of single jersey 160g with 30/s. Please provide me with some solution 

Spirality is a dimensional distortion in circular knitted fabric. Spirality is bad as it leads to displacement of seams and mismatched patterns. It can also leads to sewing difficulties. The major cause of spirality is the twist in roving and yarn. To minimize spirality, Z-twist yarns should be knotted on clockwise rotating machine and S-twist yarns on counter clockwise rotating machines. Tighter Fabics exhibit less spirality compared to looser fabrics which means that finer gauge machines will reduce spirality.

It can also be reduced by setting the twist either by autoclave treatment, yarn dyeing or using balanced plied yarns. 

For more information SITRA has a nice Technical brief here

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Kasuti Embroidery

Kasuti Embroidery

It is a traditional embroidery of the state of Karnataka and is done by counting the threads of the warp and weft with the designs traced or implanted as outlines. 

There are essentially four types of kasuti embroidery. They are Neyge Kasuti, Murgi Kasuti, Menthya Kasuti and Gavanthi Kasuti. Gavanti and Murgi comprise a straight and zig zag stitch. The stitch is identical on both sides of the cloth where as Menthe and Negi Stitch are dissimilar on either side of the fabric. The Difference between Menthe and Negi Stitch is that while the Menthe stitch resembles a cross-stitch, the Negi stitch provides a woven style. These stitches are dissimilar on either side of the fabric.

The Basis of Gavanti and Murgi Stitich is Hoblein Stitich. To understand the concept of Hoblein stitch, you can visit this site.

Excellent Material on Kasuti Embroidery is available in this document. 

An equally amazing tutorial on Kasuti Embroidery is available in this blog and in this blog. Another tutorial is available here in the same blog.

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Report on Human Resource Requirement in Textile Sector in India

This report from NSDC present a detailed overview of the human resources and skill gap requirement in Textile sector of India. Broadly it covers the following topics.

1. Environment Scanning and Competitiveness of Textile sector

1.1. Industry Size and Growth

1.2. Value chain of the Textile sector

1.3 Fibre/Filaments

1.4. Market Structure

1.5. Policy/Regulatory environment

1.6. Demand Drivers

1.7. Key Success Factors and Risk Factors

1.8. Drivers of competitiveness

2. Human Resource and Skill Requirements in the Textile Industry

2.1. Current employment pattern

2.2. Profile of human resource employed in the T&C industry

2.3. Skill requirements and skill gaps in Spinning

2.4. Skill requirements and skill gaps in Fabric Manufacturing

2.5. Skill requirements and skill gaps in Fabric processing

2.6. Skill requirements and skill gaps in Garmenting

2.7. Current Training/Education Infrastructure

2.8. Emerging trends in skill requirements

2.9. Projected Human Resource Requirements in the Textile & Clothing Sector 

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How to Identify Gadwal Saris

Gadwal Saris are traditional Indian Saris from Andhra Pradesh. The striking feature of this sari is that, while the body is made from cotton, the borders and the pallu(the falling edge of the saree) are made from silk. There is complicated joinery involved and this gives the silk/cotton mix sari its charm. 


Most Gadwal Saris are woven with interlocked - weft borders of contrasting colours. Attaching the silk border and pallav to the cotton body is called doing the 'kechchu'. This is most difficult to do and is also what sets the Gadwal sari apart from other saris. The body of the sari is woven from unbleached cotton yarn and contains patterns made using colored cotton or silk thread. The embroidery is done using threads coated with gold or copper. Traditional motifs are used in the sari. 


These saris have different types of borders - Small border, medium border, heavy border (weight of the sari doesn’t vary). Also, Kutu border, Turning border, One side border are some other terms in use.

A Gadwal Sari is of 80 counts cotton for warp and weft in the body, and 20/22 D filature silk is used in the border and pallou .The blouse is also woven on the other side of the sari which is generally 32” in length.

How to Recognise a Gadwal Sari

KUTTU (a joining) at the border for any GADWAL sari, is one feature that helps recognize it and also any GADWAL sari whether Cotton or Silk, always has a Silk border.

You can find images of Gadwal Saris HERE.

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