Making Fancy Denim- Amsler Slub, Multicount and Multitwist Yarn

Most of the Cross-Hatch Denim is produced on Amsler Slub or multi-count yarn.

Here are some examples:

Amsler is a swiss fancy-yarn machine manufacturing company. The fabrics produced of the yarn are becoming synonymous with the name of the company

What is Amsler Slub

Amsler yarn can be made on open end or on a ring spinning. 

Mostly amsler slub effect in denim is produced on open end. Thus this is an attachment to open end spinning that allows slub and multi-twist effects at less cost than true ring spun yarn.

The basic problems in producing slub yarn can be enumerated as follows (source):

1. Weak Places in the Yarn: The thick place in the yarn is followed immediately by a thin place, rather than by a simple return to the basic yarn count being spun. This, in turn, creates a weak place in the yarn.  

2. Increase in Basic Yarn twist:

Increased length of the slub leads to the increased twists of the basic yarn. It is necessary to adjust the slub length to avoid basic yarn twist exceeding critical twist.  Twists in every section of the slub yarn are in inversely proportion to the square of the linear density of the corresponding section.

The Principle of Amsler effect goes like this: The Normal yarn is formed from the basic machine speed. There is a microprocessor controlled servomotor that overfeeds with a pre-programmed textile ramp.

In case of ring frame, the servo drive system is connected to the back and middle roller via a special gear box. Only at the time of slub formation the servo motor starts and additional speed is given to the drafting system. Thus the normal yarn formation is not disturbed which results in making a yarn without weak spots. 

In case of open end yarn the principle is the same, ie. excess feed which can be explained with this figure:

Multi-Count Effect

Multi-count yarn, becoming so popular in denim fabrics is produced by a special device. This effect is characterized by having controlled count changes in length ( as short as 2 meters) while maintaining a constant twist level.

Multi-Twist Effect

Multi-twist yarns are those that feature a constant count but have different levels inside yarns. These twist levels create variations in the yarn's dye intake thus creating a special fabric appearance. 

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How to crinkle a Fabric

In the basic process, the fabric is soaked in water. It is then twisted into the form of tight rope. It is then again twisted in on itself until becoming basically a ball of twisted fabric. The ends are tucked in so the fabric doesn't come untwisted. Then it is dried using microwave or other means. It is not recommended that the damp twisted fabric ball be left overnight otherwise it will mildew.

This is an amazing article on how to crinkle a fabric.

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What is the difference among Mulberry, Tussar ( Tasar), Muga and ERI Silk

The difference is in the type of worms producing the yarn and the types of leaves they eat.

Mulberry Silk is obtained from BOMBYX MORI feeding on MULBERRY leaves.


Tussar Silk is obtained from ANTHEREA MYLITTA feeding on ARJUN and ASAN leaves.


Muga Silk is obtained from ANTHEREA ASSAMENSIS feeding on SOM and SUALU leaves.

Eri Silk is obtained from CYNTHIA RICINI  feeding on CASTOR OIL leaves.

The eri silk worm is the only completely domesticated silkworm other than Bombyx mori.

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Spinning Mills Vs. Garment Sector: Who will bear the Burden

This Article is related to Textile Industry in India

With the rising cotton yarn prices, the garment manufacturers are feeling the heat. Unable to pass on the price hike to the customers, they are turning back to the government for relief. The government has done its part by the following measures:

1. Government has withdrawn 7.67 percent DEPB Benefits for cotton yarn exports.

2. It has also introduced a cess on export of cotton yarn.

This step is take with the following assumptions:

a. Cotton yarn prices have increased because of rising export demands.

b. It is hampering the domestic garment producers and exporters.

c. While domestic markets are able to absorb the increased cost, recession hit West is unable to.

d. It is difficult to pass on the price increase to the customers.


But Will it lead to desirable results

Arguments against

a.  Social Argument: Spinning mills in the country have suffered huge losses during the last two years. They need to make some profits this year.

b. The problem could be solved by giving more assistance to the garment exports to absorb thee additional costs.

c. Less than 20% of cotton yarn produced get exported. Total exports of cotton yarn this year are less than that of last year.

d. The cut in DEPB will not affect much as long as the  global markets are able to absorb the additional costs.

e. The problem can also be solved by improving production efficiencies in Garment manufacturing units so that they can absorb the high yarn prices without passing them on to the customer.

f. It is not only raw-material prices that have gone up. Labor cost and power cost have also increased.

Arguments in Favour

a. In Tirupur, there is an 11% drop in shipments over last year of knitted fabrics.

b. Spinning mills have jacked up cotton yarn prices disproportionately vis-a-vis input costs. Thus eg. raw material prices have risen by 1.79%, but yarn prices have gone up by more than 10%.

What is your opinion ? Write your comments 


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