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Textile Notes related to fiber, yarn, fabric knowledge, spinning, weaving, processing, projects, knitting, Indian Traditional Textiles and denim manufacturing
Saturday, 10 June 2023
Indian Sarees- Major Types
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AVANTRA BY TRENDS - TIMELESS ELEGANCE; LET'S TALK SAREES
Saree- A never ending Story
Friday, 17 March 2023
2.5% AQL: How it works - with Python Code
I will take a case study and then go through it taking two approaches.
Sunday, 15 May 2022
The Rich Tapestry of Indian Sarees: A State-wise Exploration
Friday, 6 May 2022
Difference between Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees
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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees
Tuesday, 12 April 2022
Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree
All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees
These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:
This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3% ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper) silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark.
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Sunday, 10 October 2021
How to Test for Pure Zari in Kanjivaram and other Sarees
A few testing laboratories in Kanchipuram provide this service. This is what this portal has to say about the testing method:
In order to build the confidence and credibility among the customers and in the industry about the quality of zari in silk fabrics, testing is very important and much required. Hitherto, for testing metal contents in zari, destructive method of testing has been carried out. Now, the testing of zari samples and zari made fabric are carried out by Non-destructive testing (XRF Analyser), which is a unique one. The technical know-how of the project was jointly developed by Technology Information, Forecasting and Assessment Councils (TIFAC) and Tamil Nadu Zari with the guidance of the Indira Gandhi Centre for Atomic Research (IGCAR, Kalpakkam).
The Zari is sold in terms of MARC. Weight of one marc is 242 grams. The composition of the marc is indicated below: -
SILVER 55 to 57%
SILK 22 to 24%
GOLD 0.59 to 0.60%
COPPER 20 to 22%
RAW MATERIALS
The required raw materials for the production of the gold zari are:-
Ø Silver wire - 76 to 77%
Ø Silk - 13 X 15 denier
Ø Gold - 24 carat.
What is Single, 1.5, double warp in Kanjivaram Sarees
1. Kanjivaram Sarees Use 20-22 denier 3 ply filaments.
| Handloom | Powerloom | |
| Single Warp | 46-47.5 | 44-46 |
| 1.5 Warps | 46-47.5 | 44.5-46 |
| 2 Warps | 46.47.5 | 45-46 |
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Sunday, 21 March 2021
What are the Various Wild Silk Yarns
- Reeled Tussar/ Tussar Raw Silk: It is reeled from Tussar cocoons using different appliance. Reeled Tussar is finer in nature.
- TussarGicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of Tussar cocoons without any twist.
- Tussar Katia: Yarn spun out of Tussar waste after opening and cleaning.
- Tussar Jhuri: Yarn spun out of uncleaned Tussar waste without subjecting it to opening and cleaning process.
- Balkal yarn: Yarn spun out of Tussar cocoon peduncles, after boiling in alkaline solution and opened up.
- Tussar Spun Silk: Yarn spun in the mill out of Tussar silk waste.
- Muga Raw Silk: Yarn reeled from Muga cocoons.
- Muga Gicha: Yarn drawn by hand out of muga cocoons without any twist.
- Hand Spun Endi/ Eri Silk: Yarn spun by hand appliances from Eri cocoons.
- Mill Spun Eri Yarn: Yarn spun in the mill from Eri cocoons.
How Cocoons are measured in Wild Silk ( Vanya Silk)
Tussar Cocoons:
The unit of measurement of tussar cocoons is Kahan. Number of Cocoons per Kahan vary in different states. In MP one Kahan has 1000 cocoons while in Maharashtra it has 4000 Cocoons.
About 1200 cocoons are required to produce one kg of yarn.
ERI
The Eri cocoons are measured on the basis of weight ( kg)
MUGA
The Muga cocoons are transacted in thousand numbers. About 5000 cocoons are required to produce 1 kg of Muga Raw Silk.
What do you Mean by Vanya Silk
Non mulberry silks such as Tussar, Muga and Eri are called Vanya silks.
Production Trends ( 2010-11)
Vanya Silk contributed to about 20% of the total raw silk in India.
Eri, Tussar and Muga contributed to about 64%, 33% and 3% of the total Vanya silk
It contributes to about 10% of the total exports of silk goods
Tussar Silk
Silk Worm : Antheraea mylitta and Antheraea proylei
Feed on: Asan, Arjun and Oak
India is the second largest producer or Tussar Silk
History: Ram's nuptial gift to Sita included Tussar Silk
Muga Silk
Silk Worm : Antheraea assamensis
Feed on: Som and Sualu
Use of Muga Yarn instead of Zari is finding its support in Indian Weavers
Thursday, 14 May 2020
Difference among Hand-knotted, Hand-tufted, Kilim and Durries
Source
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Sunday, 26 May 2019
Three Million Page Views !! Thank you Readers !
Sunday, 12 May 2019
What causes Pilling in the Fabrics
Pilling is always known in wool specially in garments with soft twisted yarns like Angora. However, with the emergence of synthetic fibers the tendency is aggravated.
What happens is that because the strength of the fibers which "anchor" the pills is low in the natural fibres, pills get formed and removed. But in case of synthetic fibers, which have more strength. the pills remain on the garment and accumulate and become worse.
Why pills get formed. It is due to migration of fibers from the yarn on to the surface of the fabric. So any treatment that reduces this migration tendency will reduce the pilling tendency. Thus increasing the twist in the yarn reduces the pilling tendency as it binds the fibers onto yarn.
The following are factors affecting Pilling
Fiber Factors
1. Fiber Nature: As explained natural fibers are less susceptible to pilling than synthetic
2. Fiber Fineness: Finer fibers are more susceptible to pilling as there is more propensity to bending. For example Angora is more susceptible to pilling than normal wool
3. Fiber Friction: More crimp in the fiber, less is the crimp as the migration tendency of the fibers is reduced.
4. Fiber Length: Shorter fibers are more susceptible to pilling as the migration of fibers is increased.
5. Fiber Strength: As explained earlier, strong fibers increase pilling tendency as there the pills find it hard to dislodge from the garment surface.
Yarn Factors
1. Yarn Count: Coarser the count, more fibers are there in the cross section which leads to higher pilling tendency.
2. Yarn Twist: As explained earlier, more yarn twist leads to less crimp as it binds the fibers more and reduces its yarn tendency.
3. Yarn Finishing: Unsinged yarns have more tendency to pill.
4. Incompatible Blends: If the blend contains components that are incompatible with respect to fiber length and other parameters, tendency to pill increases.
Fabric Parameters
Closer fabric structures lead to less pilling.
If the fabric is subjected to long processes in finishing and processing there is more friction and hence more pilling is formed.
Use of anti-pilling finishes can reduce the tendency of pilling.
Apart from technological factors, a few of the important factors for pilling are:
1. The person wearing the garment, if that person is particularly hard on garments, pilling tendency is more.
2. There are some susceptible parts of garments such as collars, cuffs, pocket edges which are more susceptible to pill, as there is more rubbing/chafing of the parts.
3. Garments which are frequently washed are more susceptible to pilling.
Testing of Pilling
A very nice introduction to pilling testing is dealt in this NPTEL lecture.
Sources
1 2- Principles of Textile Testing- J. E. Booth
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Saturday, 13 April 2019
What are the three Primary Colors used in Traditional Handblock Printing of Rajasthan
- The application of red dye is called Ghan Rangai. For ghan grangai, the alum mordanted fabric is introduced into a heated water bath along with Alizarin. It produces the red, wherever the fabric is mordanted with Alum.
- The application of Indigo for producing blue color is called Nil Rangai. In this an Indigo dye vat is prepared and fabric is introduced into it and the fabric is dipped into it for 5 to 10 minutes. Then it is taken out and spread into the sun. After this it is again introduced into the bath, this goes on until the required color depth is obtained
- The third primary shade, yellow is obtained using Nasphal Putai. Nasphal dye is a cold solution of anar ka chhilka ( pomegranate rind) and haldi ( turmeric) which is typically smeared ( Potai or putai) onto the cloth surface after all other dye and print process has been completed. As an overdye, nasphal generates a number of other shades: over indigo it creates green, over kasumal it gives orange, and over red dyed areas it results in softer red-ochre shades. This smearing is done quickly and after smearing, the cloth is laid in the sun "until it smells cooked". After that it is rinsed in Alum solution, dried and aged and washed thoroughly.
