Difference between Muslin and Malmal (MulMul)

Both the terms are used for traditional Indian Handloom Fabrics.

Muslin

As per BIS, muslin is a generic term for a light weight open cloth of plain or plain gauze weave. Normally muslins do not exceed 68 g/sq.m. In some cases grey fabric is used for example butter muslin and cheese cloth, whereas for others (dress material) bleached and dyed muslin is used.

Muslin can be made in the following counts(Warp x Weft - English)/reed x pick( EPI x PPI)/Wt is gm/sq m

60s x 60s / 66 x 58/ 50
64 x 80/71 x55/40
80 x 80 /76 x 73/45
100 x80 /96 x 88/ 48
120 x 100 /109 x 76/40

Normally in count, reed  x pick and weight a tolerance of +-5% is observed. A dimensional change of 4% and a scouring loss of 2.5% is generally the agreed norm.

The fabric should be free of the following flaws:
 -More than two adjacent ends running parallel, broken or missing and extending beyond 20 cm;
- Weft crack or more than two missing picks across the width of the material;
- Prominently noticeable weft bar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist, lustre, etc;
- Noticeable selvedge defects;
- Noticeable warp or weft float in the body;
- Noticeable oil or other stains;
-Noticeable hole; cut or tear up to 3 mm in size;
-Smash rupturing the texture of the fabric;
- Undressed snarls noticeable throughout the piece;
- Conspicuous gout due to foreign matter usually lint or waste woven into cloth;
- Conspicuous broken pattern; and
- Any other flaw which would mar the appearance or affect the serviceability or durability of the cloth.

Malmal

Malmal is generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier than muslin.

Malmal can be made in the following counts(Warp x Weft - English)/reed x pick( EPI x PPI)/Wt is gm/sq m

100x100/ 81 x 81/39
100 x 100/101 x 101/48
80 x 80/68 x 68/42
80 x 80/81 x 78/49
60 x80/68 x 68/50
60 x80/73 x 83/56
60 x60/71 x60/54
60 x60/81x71/62

Tolerance is generally 5% in both directions.

Dimensional change is 5% from loomstate and 4% from processed. Scouring loss is 6% in loomstate and 5% in processed.

Watch this classic song from Lata Mangeshkar related to Malmal

And if you are a fan of Honey Singh, here is his rap in this Song "Kurti Malmal di.."

Manufacturing of Powerloom 40s x 40s 72 x 68 Fabric

This fabric is woven on the border areas of Andhra Pradesh and Tamil Nadu states of India and has a widepopularity as a dress material for ladies ( Kurtis and Salwars). It has the potential to be printed or embroidered.

The count for this fabric is 40s  both warp and weft and constructions is 72 and 68. It is available in both 44 inches and 56 inches.

The following are the broad steps in making the fabric

1. Yarn is taken in hank form and is kept in water tanks for two days for them to wet properly. Then the yarn is scoured in hank form itself.

Label on a Hank Yarn

2. Yarn dyeing is done using either reactive or vat dyes. Yarn dyeing is done manually.

Color Kitchen

Dyeing Bath for Hank Yarn - Reactive Dyes
  

3. Yarn is then subjected to sizing using Maida and Gum as components. The yarn is subjected to alternate dyeing and sizing three times.

Yarn Being Dried after Sizing

4. Yarn is then prepared for warping using an ingenious creel and then wound onto a weavers beam using a conventional sectional warping machines. 

5. Pirns are prepared using an indigenous contraption.

6. Yarn is then worked on powerloom having warp stop and weft stop motion.

6. Primitive dobbies are used for woven and zari borders.

 
7. The yarn is then subjected to finishing using water, sometimes in a padding mangle using softner and desizing agent.

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Difference between Blended Fabrics and Union Fabrics

Blended Fabrics are made up of blended yarns. Blended yarns contain fibers of different composition in fixed proportions. Thus a blended fabric may be made of polyester/cotton in 67:33 ratio in both warp and weft. 

Union fabrics are the fabrics where in the fibre content of warp is different form that of  weft. Thus a Silk/Viscose union fabric may have silk in the warp and viscose in the weft. 

An excellent study on silk/viscose union fabrics can be found here. 

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How to crinkle a Fabric

In the basic process, the fabric is soaked in water. It is then twisted into the form of tight rope. It is then again twisted in on itself until becoming basically a ball of twisted fabric. The ends are tucked in so the fabric doesn't come untwisted. Then it is dried using microwave or other means. It is not recommended that the damp twisted fabric ball be left overnight otherwise it will mildew.

This is an amazing article on how to crinkle a fabric.

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How to Check the Colorfastness of a Fabric

A colorfast test helps you decide which fabrics are going to bleed in the wash
-Fill a glass with hot water.
-Add a drop of detergent.
-Place a scrap of fabric into the water.
-Let fabric soak for a few minutes.
-Remove fabric from water. Blot with a white paper towel.If dye bleeds into the towel, redo the test with the same fabric scrap. If it still bleeds, then there is a problem

fabric spreading

Please refer to this link