The Rich Tapestry of Indian Sarees: A State-wise Exploration

The Indian saree is a timeless and iconic garment that has been a part of Indian culture for centuries. With its elegant drape and intricate designs, it represents the diverse traditions and craftsmanship of the country. The modern wearing style of saree was invented in 1862 by Rani Gyanodanandini Tagore, wife of Satyandranath Tagore, who was the elder brother of Rabindranath Tagore. Each state in India has its unique style of saree, with distinct patterns, borders, and fabrics. In this article, we delve into the rich tapestry of Indian sarees, exploring the variations across different states.

Kerala:

In Kerala, the saree is known as "Pudva." It typically features a simple yet elegant design with a border called "Kara." The body or ground of the saree is referred to as "Udal." The outer end-piece is called "Mundani" or "Anchalam," while the inner end-piece is known as "Ullattam." The saree is often adorned with a selvedge called "Vakka" and an end fringe called "Allukk." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is left plain, and the saree is folded in a style known as "Madak."

Karnataka:

Karnataka embraces the saree in various forms, including "Seere" and "Bond." The border, known as "Kinar," "Anchu," or "Patta," adds a touch of elegance to the saree. The body or ground is called "Nadamu" or "Maidan." The outer end-piece, referred to as "Seregu" or "Pallav," is intricately designed. The inner end-piece, called "Lopala Kongu," complements the overall look. The saree is finished with a selvedge called "Ginta Javana," "Jamada," or "Jawla." The end fringe is known as "Baddi," "Badi Athari," "Badhaggi," or "Kante Thojhalar." The saree fold style in Karnataka is called "Chotto Attri," "Potta Athari," "Badige," or "Galinge."

Goa:

Goa celebrates its saree heritage with names like "Lugda," "Kapad," and "Sado." The border, known as "Kath," adds a distinctive touch. The body or ground of the saree is called "Aang." The outer and inner end-pieces are referred to as "Bhailo," "Pallov," "Podar," and "Bheetolo Pallov," respectively. The saree is adorned with a selvedge called "Kath," and the end fringe is known as "Gone." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is called "Dassi," and the saree is folded in the "Ghadi" style.

Maharashtra:

Maharashtra boasts a range of sarees, including "Baan" and "Lugda." The border, known as "Ghadi," "Mad," "Kinar," or "Garbh," is intricately designed. The body or ground of the saree is called "Dal" or "Garbh." The saree features a distinct end-piece called "Padar" or "Patti." The inner end-piece is referred to as "Dhungan Patti." The saree is adorned with a selvedge called "Jeeb" or "Nakhi." The end fringe is known as "Punchra." The finishing touch is given with a decorative element called "Dassi" or "Dasta." The Maharashtra style of folding the saree is known as "Ghadi."

Gujarat:

Gujarat is renowned for its vibrant sarees like "Lugda" and "Sadlo." The border, known as "Kor," "Phumro," or "Dhaburao," features intricate patterns and designs. The body or ground of the saree is called "Pate," "Libhai," or "Bhoomi." The saree often showcases a beautiful pallav or outer end-piece called "Saur," "Chheda," or "Pallav." The selvedge is referred to as "Chilla," while the end fringe is called "Kantho," "Kanar," "Baid," or "Dhari." The saree is folded with finesse in a style known as "Fumka." The parting-stripe of warp without weft is called "Chiran."

Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh:

Madhya Pradesh and Chhattisgarh offer a variety of sarees, including "Jote," "Lugda," and "Pata." The border, known as "Kinar" or "Dhadi," is often intricately woven. The body or ground is called "Peta," "Deh," "Zamin," "Dharti," or "Howda." The saree features a unique end-piece called "Pallavan," "Patta," "Munh," "Anchi," or "Jhela." A decorative element called "Kanihai Patti" adds charm to the saree. The selvedge is referred to as "Dun" or "Dohra Patti." The end fringe is known as "Phunchra," and the saree fold is called "Chir" or "Dhadi."

Uttar Pradesh:

Uttar Pradesh embraces the saree in various styles like "Dhoti," "Lugdi," "Lugga," and "Sari." The border, known as "Kinar" or "Bel," is intricately woven. The body or ground is called "Pote" or "Zameen." The saree showcases a beautiful pallu or outer end-piece called "Palloo," "Palla," or "Anchal." The selvedge is referred to as "Tala" or "Deodhi Ke Baad." The finishing touch is given with a decorative element called "Koria" or "Berai." The saree features a delicate end fringe known as "Jhalar." The saree fold styles in Uttar Pradesh include "Cheer" and "Ghadi" or "Tehi."

Bihar and Jharkhand:

Bihar and Jharkhand have their own distinct styles of sarees that showcase the cultural richness of the region. The sarees in these states are known by names like "Dhoti," "Luga," and "Langa." The border, called "Paar" or "Kinar," adds a touch of elegance to the saree. The body or ground is referred to as "Zameen," "Lapate," or "Hauz." The saree features a beautiful end-piece known as the "Aanchal" or "Mukpat." A unique decorative element called "Gajnautha" is often incorporated into the design. The selvedge is known as "Kor," and the end fringe is called "Dassi" or "Fudna." The saree is folded in a style known as "Cheela," while the parting-stripe of warp without weft is referred to as "Dhadi."

West Bengal:

West Bengal, known for its rich artistic heritage, offers a diverse range of sarees that capture the essence of the region. The saree in West Bengal is often referred to as "Bhaaj." The border, called "Paar" or "Payrey," showcases intricate patterns and designs. The body or ground of the saree is referred to as "Jameen," "Gaa," "Khol," or "Pota." The outer end-piece, known as "Uni Aanchol" or "Aanchala," adds a touch of grace. The inner end-piece is referred to as "Thol Aanchal," "Kolod," or "Kol." The saree is often embellished with decorative elements like "Aal," "Aanthi," "Mulkandi," or "Aangot." The saree features a distinctive end fringe called "Chhela" or "Dosi." In West Bengal, the saree is often folded in the traditional style of "Bhaaj" or "Guti Bhaaj."

The diverse range of Indian sarees reflects the rich cultural heritage and craftsmanship of each state. From the simple elegance of Kerala's "Pudva" to the vibrant patterns of Gujarat's "Lugda," each saree tells a unique story. Exploring the different styles, borders, body/ground, end-pieces, selvedges, and folds of sarees across India offers a fascinating glimpse into the country's rich textile traditions. Whether it's the traditional weaves of Maharashtra or the intricate designs of Karnataka, Indian sarees continue to captivate with their timeless beauty and cultural significance.

Difference between Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees

Kanjivarams for commercial use are mainly made in Salem and Dharmavaram clusters. 

In Dharmavaram, zari is used both/either in warp and weft, usually mixed with Resham. In Salem, Resham ( Silk is used in warp and weft). In salem, brocades are created using extra thread figuring. Also Kuttu pallu is used in Dharmavaram in most of the sarees for creating contrast colors in pallu. In salem, tie-and-dye  is used for the same. Also in Salem Butas are used in the sarees, as compared to Dharmavarams that use brocades. 

In Kanjivaram, stiffening is done during polishing as compared to Dharmavaram where softening is done. 

Dharmavaram sarees are cheaper than the Kanjivaram, because they use zari in warp as compared to Kanjivaram, that use pure silk. 

Here is a list of other differences: 

Weaving Technique: The weaving technique used for Kanjivaram sarees is known as "korvai," which involves separately weaving the body and border of the saree and then interlocking them. In contrast, Dharmavaram sarees are woven in a "pit loom" technique, where the entire saree is woven as a single piece, including the body, border, and pallu (the loose end of the saree).

Motifs and Designs: Kanjivaram sarees are known for their rich and intricate designs, often featuring traditional South Indian motifs such as temple borders, checks, and floral patterns. Dharmavaram sarees, on the other hand, typically showcase broader borders with contrasting colors and intricate designs inspired by nature, mythology, and local culture.

Pallu Design: The pallu of a Kanjivaram saree usually features elaborate designs and motifs that complement the overall look of the saree. In contrast, Dharmavaram sarees often have a plain or minimally designed pallu, allowing the focus to be on the border and body of the saree.

Color Palette: Kanjivaram sarees are known for their vibrant and contrasting color combinations, with a wide range of options available. Dharmavaram sarees, on the other hand, often feature more subtle and harmonious color schemes.

Both Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees are highly regarded and cherished for their beauty, craftsmanship, and cultural significance. Whether it's the weaving technique, designs, or regional influences, these sarees showcase the artistic diversity and heritage of South India.

Difference in Motifs 

The motifs used in Kanjivaram and Dharmavaram sarees differ in terms of their design elements and inspirations. Here are the general characteristics of motifs found in both saree types:

Kanjivaram Saree Motifs:

Temple Borders: Kanjivaram sarees are renowned for their temple border motifs, which draw inspiration from the architectural designs of South Indian temples. These motifs often feature intricate depictions of temple carvings, deities, peacocks, elephants, and other elements associated with temple art and culture.

Checks and Stripes: Another common motif in Kanjivaram sarees is the use of checks and stripes. These patterns can be either small or large and are typically created using contrasting colors. The checks and stripes add a distinctive visual appeal to the saree.

Floral Patterns: Floral motifs are often seen in Kanjivaram  sarees, representing natural elements and incorporating various flowers like lotus, jasmine, and roses. These floral designs are intricately woven into the saree to create an elegant and timeless look.

Peacock Motifs: Peacocks hold a special place in South Indian culture, and their motifs are frequently used in Kanjeevaram sarees. Peacock-inspired designs are woven into the pallu or border of the saree, showcasing the grace and beauty of these majestic birds.

Dharmavaram Saree Motifs:

Nature-inspired Motifs: Dharmavaram sarees often feature motifs inspired by nature, such as flowers, leaves, vines, and trees. These motifs are intricately woven into the saree to depict the beauty and abundance of the natural world.

Mythological Motifs: Dharmavaram sarees also draw inspiration from Hindu mythology and folklore. Motifs representing gods, goddesses, and mythological characters are commonly seen, symbolizing devotion and cultural heritage.

Peacock and Swan Motifs: Similar to Kanjivaram sarees, Dharmavaram sarees often incorporate peacock and swan motifs. These motifs are believed to symbolize grace, purity, and beauty, and they add an element of charm to the overall design.

Geometric Patterns: Dharmavaram sarees occasionally feature geometric patterns, such as squares, diamonds, and triangles, adding a contemporary touch to the traditional design. These geometric motifs are often combined with other elements to create a visually striking composition.

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Polishing in Kanjivaram Sarees

Polishing involves application of gum and winding the saree onto cloth rolls. The aim is to put the stiffness in the fabric. 

Polishing in Salem Kanjivaram sarees is done only for Powerloom sarees after they are made. The Gaund ( Gum ) is applied by hand after the saree is made before it is wound on the square planks. Then it is made to dry in the sunlight for about six hours. 

For handloom sarees, it is applied while it is made. After every one feet or more of weaving. The gum ( Pasai) is applied. 

In Dharmavaram, instead of stiffening, the softening is done, as it is mostly zari. They also use shampoo to make it shining. 

In Handloom fabrics in Dharmavaram, they use bisleri water to make it shining. 

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Costing of a Typical Handloom Kanjivaram Saree

Weavers ( piecework)                                                              :                2500 x 10 = 25000 Rs.

Zari Mark for Sarees 10 Sarees Warp                                      :               1200 x 30 = 36000 Rs.  ( Price of one Mark: 1200 Rs.)

Zari Mark for Sarees Weft                                                       :                1200 x 10 = 12000 Rs. 

Design & Punching Cards                                                       :                13000+2000 = 15000 Rs

( 240 Hooks each on Border, 

Pallu, 2 x Body: total 4 Jacquards) 

Silk for Body 10 Sarees  (18-20 denier 2 ply)                       :                 2 kg x 6000  = 12000 Rs.

Silk For Border 10 Sarees                                                      :                 1 kg x 6000  = 6000 Rs. 

Dyeing                                                                                    :                                        = 1500 Rs. 

Total                                                                                        :                  1,07,500

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All About Zari in Kanjivaram Sarees

These are the following qualities of zari used in Kanjivaram  and Varanasi Sarees. First lets understand some terms related to zari:

1 Mark: 4 spools with net weight of 240 grams ( Total weight comes out to be 311 grams). One spool contains 2800 to 3000 yards length.  

1. Tested or Plastic Zari or Metallic Zari

This type of zari is purely artificial in which fused plastic is coated with metal like aluminum. This metallized sheet is dyed in various colors according to the requirements and converted into thin tapes, which are finally wound on a core of polyester, viscose or nylon to make the final product. Used in the lowest qualities of Varanasi sarees specially in Dupions. Normally price is about 250 to 300 Rs. per mark. 

2. German Silver Zari

This is also used in the low cost Kanjivaram sarees. Generally it is 30 D zari. Here the core is polyester, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 720 Rs. per mark. 

3. German Silk Fast Zari

This is generally used in the medium price Kanjivaram Sarees. Generally the denier is about 30. Here the core is pure silk, with 0.2%-0.3%  ( 2 to 3 grams/kg of copper)  silver wrapped on copper . Normally price is around 1200 Rs. per mark. 

4. Half Fine Zari

This is generally used in the premium Kanjivaram Sarees. The gold content is about 0.01% (1gm) to 0.02%(2gm) per kg of copper. The Silk yarn is used in the core. The price is between 1800 -2200 Rs.  per mark. 

5. Pure Zari

It is made only on order Silk yarn is used as core, over that silver and than plated with gold. In one of the test reports, the following were the results: Gold 0.13, Silver: 18.42 and copper 56.61. 

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