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Gopalpur Ikat Weaving Cluster

The way was literally littered with the inspiration from the motifs of Pat Chitra. Here are some glimpses. The pictures are taken from a temple. 

 These tiles (below) are widely used in making houses and boundary walls.

Gopalpur is known for the tussar weaving. They tie and dye the yarn to create the temple motifs. The tying and dyeing is not practiced here and they buy it from Nuaptana. They also do a lot of Ghicha weaving. 

Below is a white eri sari. Notice the contamination of the yarn, because the moth escapes out of the cocoon by secreting a fluid. A fine example of Ahimsa Silk.

An example of ghicha Temple sari woven on the loom.

Notice the bow used to control the width, it also leaves a few holes in the sari at the selvedge

The temples are adjusted and aligned by pulling out the yarn at the selvedge itself, no doubt these sarees have uneven selvedge. 

The picture and video below depicts weaving of weft Ikat in the Gopalpur ( Jazpur) Orissa. The saree is woven on the wrong side. See carefully how the design is adjusted by pinching the weft after each pick is inserted. The result is a beautiful design, the "flaw" at the left side of the sari are the "pinched" portion of weft to adjust the design. Incidentally, the Ikat in Gopalpur is woven in Majority of Tussar ( 33/37) with a classic temple motif done in weft ikat, which can also be seen in the video.

Nuapatna Ikat Textile Cluster-3

This one is called the Khandua Society.

Khandua fabrics and Sarees are in general products woven in the Nuapatna Cluster.

Was impressed to see the technical innovation done in handloom to ease the life of weavers. Use of pedal, chain and wheel from cycle to adoptation of Tara loom to weave weft ikat is amazing. Have a look.

In general in all these sarees the border portion is weft tyed-died while the body portion in weft ikat. 

To know more read the document in this journal

Nuapatna Ikat Textile Cluster-2

This cluster specializes in making Dongria and Siminoi Sarees, which are woven motifs inspired from the embroidery and colors used by Dongria and Siminoi tribes of Orissa.

Dongria

Siminoi

Apart from the that traditional Ikat sarees were woven. EPI x PPI for Silk sarees is 88x 80 for Cotton it is 70 x 80.

The count used in Silk is Bangalore x Maldah ( 20/22 degummed x 33/37 degummed) for Cotton it is 120s x 2/100s.