Technology of Charkha Spinning

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Charkha or Hand Spinning Wheel

Charkha is not only synonymous with Khadi, it is also the soul of Indian Subcontinent. It reminds one of the good old villages and the simple life there. One cannot just love but feel from one's core this heart rendering song from Ustad Nusrat Fatah Ali Khan in Punjabi. I have give the translation in English.

Listen to this song from great mastero here...

Translation ( Source)

Listen oh sound of the spinning wheel I remember my love, my heart laments for my beloved... 

When will the new moon of my love rise When will you come home beloved Sorrows are intolerable and life hopeless...

 when beloved arrives I will rejoice I will unfurl my glances in his direction This separation is life threatening ...

 relatives have started hurting with their words do write letter with the date of your arrival dark night bites hurting with its sting...

my tears keep flowing constantly as I gather the thread spundo not like laughter these days how can I forget his behavior...

Charkha is embedded in the Sufism of our subcontinent, from Kabir to now...it is a source of inspiration of many songs. Listen to this song from Lakhwinder Wasdali and Puran Sing

This is an ode to Charkha from Rahet Fatah Ali Khan

A Beautiful song from Harjit Harman

And of course - there is a spinning wheel at every corner ( Chappa Chappa Charkha Chale)

There are many, the fact remains that spinning wheel has penetrated deep from culture to our hearts.

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Complete Free Course in Spinning

Complete free course in spinning!And that too, by none other than the masters of Spinning Technology, Rieter.

 Look no further, Rikipedia, has brought for you the complete course in fiber preparation, spinning preparation and yarn manufacturing.

 Please click this link to access the course.

 I just wish I could use this while I was a student.

 Thanks for your attention. Did you find the information you were looking for ? Please leave a comment. Do you need to know more ? Please suggest a topic in the comments.

Description, Designation and Annotation of Textile Yarn

There is frequently a need to describe the textile yarn concisely in the language which a laymen can understand. Also there is a need to write concisely the description of the textile yarn. ASTM has an elaborate system to describe spun, filament and a yarn made from a combination of these i.e. ply and cable yarn. 

In yarns such as ply or cable yarn which are made from components, it is essential to describe the components and the resultant from those components. Thus in describing such yarns, there have to be two groups; one of them describes the components and the other describes the resultant yarn. Accordingly there are two ways to write a yarn description. 

First method is called single to fold or ply notation. In this system, the single component of yarn is described first and only then the resultant yarn is descibed. This system is used in indirect numbering system. 

Second method is called fold or ply to single notation. In this system, the whole structure is described first and then the components are described. This is frequently used by yarn buyers. 

The full treatment of the topic is given here. Some general guidelines and examples are given in this article.

The notation 

24 Ne Z 15tpi (Cotton, 1 1/6 inch, SLM, 4.3 Micronaire Reading)/5 S 9 tpi/3 Z 5tpi; R 1.4 cc

represents a yarn made from 24 Count twisted in z direction with 15 twists per inch which is then again twisted 5 fold in s directions with 9 tpi and three such yarns are again twisted in Z direction with 5 tip which give a resultant cotton count of 1.4. 

The filament single yarn is described as

11 tex f40 s 2.5tpi( nylon 2.5 dtex)

For yarns where linear density gets increased on bulking or texturising, we describe it by symbol B.

70 den f34 t0(Nylon 2.97den); B 80 den

B 80 indicate that the denier of yarn is increased from 70 to 80 after bulking. 

Multiple wound yarns are described as:

25 tex Z 15 tpi ( Cotton ) x 2 t0

Here t0 indicate zero twist and describes that 2 yarns of 25 tex cotton with 15 tpi in z direction are wound together.

We can also describe a yarn using x.

You can read more here.

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What is Super Combed Cotton

Combing operation necessarily eliminates a certain predetermined percentage of short fibers, which when spun produces a softer and smoother yarn. It also permits to spin to a fine count of yarn.

We sometimes segregate cotton yarns depending upon the percentage of short fibers removed during combing.

In Semi Combed Cotton the short fiber removal percentage is kept at 5-10%.

In Normally Combed cotton the short fiber removal percentage is kept between 10-20%.

In Super Combed cottons the short fiber removal percentage is over 20%.

A very nice introduction to combing for Textile Technologists can be found in this article.

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A review of Cotton Spinning- Process Control Perspective

On this site, I have found quite a good number of articles on properties of cotton and cotton spinning. A very good site for the review of spinning basics.

Here is a list of the articles that I like the most.

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What is Eli Twist Yarn

Source : www.suessen.com

Eli Twist Yarns are basically Compact Ring Double Yarns, in which doubling takes place in the ring frame and yarn is single wound . The technology is developed and perfected by Suessen corporation.  It is mostly used for high end Shirting Fabric .It combines compact spinning and twisting of a yarn in one single operation. It produces a two-ply yarn with identical direction of twist in both yarn legs. The twist coefficient of EliTwist Yarns is between the twist coefficient of a single yarn and the ply-twist coefficient of a conventional S/Z two-ply yarn. 

It leads to a very smooth structure of yarn, closed yarn surface and circular yarn cross-section. The yarn has a high regularity. It has an extremely low hairiness, especially of long fibers. The yarn has very high breaking load and elongation and very low pilling tendency. It lends itself easily to splicing.

You can read the technical manual here.

 

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Which is weaker Fabric ? That Made from Airjet/Rotor/Friction Yarn or Ring Yarn ?

If your reasoning goes like this that since single yarn strength of airjet/ rotor or friction yarn is less than that of ring yarn so fabrics made from ring yarn will be stronger than those made from airjet/rotor or friction yarn, than you are in for a Surprise. 

The fabric made from ring yarn will be weaker than those made from the other yarn as mentioned above. 

A study done by scholars of IIT and Behrampur University suggests this conclusion. 

The presence of wrapper fibers inside the rotor/airjet/friction yarns increase the frictional force inside the fabric and therefore resist rupture, among other factors such as the rupture of wrapper fibers inside the fabric for these yarns are more than ring yarn, which enhance further frictional force. 

You can read the full study here.

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Which yarn is better for knitting: Ring or Compact

A study on cotton yarn was done to answer the question mentioned above. It was done by Muhameet Akaydin of Pamukkale University, Turkey. The following are the conclusions from the study:

1. Compact fabrics absorb more dyes and thus have vivid colors than the ring fabrics.

2. They have higher abrasion resistance and lower pilling tendency than ring fabrics.

3. They show higher bursting strength than ring yarns.

You can download the full study here.

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Micro spinning or How to produce yarn at 40% cheaper than the conventional ring frame

As per the Site of Ministry of Rural Development “This technology is developed by Vortex pertains to the stages preparatory to spinning (pre-spinning). This can be coupled with a conventional spinning frame to produce yarn economically at a scale that is 1/100th of the prevailing scale. The technology integrates the operation of seed-removal (Ginning) with in-situ handling of fibres to produce slivers.”

Microspinning is a process of spinning in which small quantities of yarn can be produced. This is unlike in case of a standard spinning mill where large quantities of yarn need to be produced in order to be viable. In a spinning mill, the use of bales is the major cause of producing large quantities. It is also seen that pre spinning process is the major factor in making the textile mills bigger in size.

Micro spinning process eliminate the use of bales and convert directly cotton picked from fields to slivers. Thus it does away with the process of first converting the fibers into bales and then make it into uncompressed state. It will thus make possible for a spinner to produce as low as 30 tonnes per year of a medium quality of yarn (33s count) and therefore spinning can be brought in line with other small scale processes which can be done in small quantities such as dyeing and weaving. Weaver will get more returns ( about 20%) as a result of inhouse spindles (minimum 8 spindles onwards) the cost of setting up also reduces drastically.

Each microspinning unit from cotton to yarn will cost about 10 lakh rupees and therefore is an excellent investment for a small size entrepreneur. Total power requirement for a 24 spindle unit producing 3kg hank yarn per eight hours is less than 2 KW which is excellent for a power starved country like India. It required as area as low as 500 sq feet and can be installed in the field itself. As far as profitability of the unit is concerned, it is claimed that even at 40% capacity utilization, the profitability of a micro spinning unit will be seven times greater than the average spinning mill.

The possible issue here is the quality of yarn produced by microspinning unit as compared to the mill spinning. But I guess it would be ideal for low speed powerlooms and handlooms and will serve its purpose excellently.

Any success Stories ? Yes, there are many. According to website of Society of Elimination of Rural Poverty “The first unit has been running successfully in Chirala in Andhra Pradesh for the last 6 years and the cloth produced through this process is called “Malkha” cloth. Chirala unit has attained viability and sustainability and is being developed as a resource center for micro spinning and it is producing 1500 meters cloth per month and expected to increase to 1800 meters per month by April 2009”.

Other Links

Textile Spinning

India Together

Project Report
General Report

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Ringframe Productivity

Cotton Yarn prices are sky-rocketing, thanks to the failure of crops in China and India and rising export demands in developing countries. It is but obvious, that the companies dealing in yarn are making or expected to make huge profits in the coming quarter. The profitability is going to be even more for the composite textile mills where value addition is more. All this is leading to rise in the stock prices of Textile Companies in India and I am sure everywhere else in the world. I am bombarded from friends dealing in share market with requests of how to calculate various indicators to judge the operating efficiency of a spinning organization. One of the question being how to calculate the production per spindle in a ring frame.

Kilogram per spindle depends upon the count, spindle speed, efficiency of ring frame and twist per inch. In general, higher the count, lower the kilograms per spindle. Similarly higher the twist per inch, lower the kilograms per spindle. Ring frame efficiency varies from 90-93%, it decreases as the count increases with about 91% for 20s and 93% for 40s count. A formula for calculating the kg per spindle is given in the second link below.

As a rule of thumb, a mill with an average 70s count will be giving .200 kg per spindle per day, a mill with 35s count will give approx double, that is .400 gms per day. Similarly production in Kg per day for other counts can be calculated.

Bibliography

Loyal Textiles

Article of Mr. P.L. Chiang

Venerated Mr. Vijay Kumar's Observations

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Fiber Length and Spinning Performance

Fiber length in spinning is important because it influences spinning limit, yarn strength, evenness and hairiness. It also contributes to the handle and luster of the product by influencing the number of turns of twist required. It influences productivity via the end breakage rate and end breakage rate.

In general, fibers less than 4 to 5 mm are lost at the spinning stage. Fibers from 12 to 15 mm do not contribute to strength but only to the fullness of the yarn. It is only fibers greater than 15mm in length that produce other positive characteristics in the yarn.

Fiber length after carding is most important. Conditions at card and fiber characteristics should be such that the fibers survive carding without noticeable shortening in length.

The fiber lengths can be assessed with the help of a staple diagram.

Remember that the fibers in the boll do not show extremely great length differences. Noticeable differences arise even before the spinning starts. This happens due to mechanical working on the fibers at the ginning and

cleaning stage.

Rectangular Staple

Such diagram is achievable with synthetic fibers.

However such lengths can cause problems in drafting as in drafting stage fibers do not move individually but in bunches, thereby producing a high degree of unevenness.

Triangular Staple

It lends itself to better processing than rectangular staple diagram. However, it produces too many short fibers which cannot be maintained under control. Thus it produces hairy yarn.

Trapezoidal Staple

The fibers depicting such diagram are ideal for processing.

Stepped Staple

It indicates that fiber materials of different lengths are mixed in wrong proportions. It has the disadvantage that fibres move only in bunches which produce a high degree of unevenness.

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Influence of Fiber Fineness and Maturity in spinning Process

Influence of Fiber Fineness and Maturity on spinning Process

Fiber Fineness

Fiber fineness determine how many fibers are present in the cross section of a yarn of given thickness. Additional fibers in the cross section not only provide additional strength but also a better distribution in the yarn. Minimum 30 fibers are needed, usually over 100 fibers are required. Fiber fineness influences spinning limit, drape of the fabric, yarn strength, luster, yarn evenness, handle, yarn fullness and productivity. Productivity is influenced by reduced end breakage rate.

In a conventional spinning process, fine fibers accumulate to the core and coarse fibers in the periphery.

Fiber fineness is measured in dtex which is equal to ratio of mass in dgrams and length in km. Decitex is equal to the product of Micronaire value of the cotton and 0.394.

Cotton fibers are generally classified as very fine if they have a micronaire value upto 3.1; fine if they have value between 3.1 to 3.9; medium if they have it between 4.0 to 4.9; slightly coarse between values of 5 to 5.9 and coarse if they have a micronaire value above 6.

Fiber Maturity

Cotton fiber consists of cell wall and lumen. The maturity index depends upon the thickness of the cell wall. The fibers are considered ripe if they have maturity index between 50-80 percent, unripe if they have MI between 30 to 45% and dead when they have it less than 25%.

Unripe fibers have neither adequate strength nor adequate longitudinal thickness. They lead to loss of yarn strength, neppiness, high proportion of short fibers, varying dyeability, processing difficulties mainly at the card.

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Why Fiber Fineness is so Important

Why Fiber Fineness is So Important

It has been known since long that fiber fineness plays an important role in determining the quality of resultant yarn and hence that of the resultant fabrics. In general fiber fineness is important due to the following factors:

1. It affects Stiffness of the Fabric

As the fiber fineness increases, resistance to bending decreases. It means the fabric made from yarn of finer fiber is less stiff in feel. It also drapes better.

2. It affects Torsional Rigidity of the Yarn

Torsional rigidity means ability to twist. As fiber fineness increases, torsional rigidity of the yarn reduces proportionally. Thus fibers can be twisted easily during spinning operation. Also there will be less snarling and kink formation in the yarn when the fine fibers are used.

3. Reflection of Light

Finer fibers also determine the luster of the fabric. It is so because they there are so many number of fibers per unit area that they produce a soft sheen. This is different from Hard glitter produced by the coarser fibers. Also the apparent depth of the shade will be lighter in case of fabrics made with finer fibers than in case of coarser fibers.

4. Absorption of Dyes

The amount of dye absorbed depends upon the amount of surface area accessible for dye out of a given volume of fibers. Thus finer fibers leads to quicker exhaustion of dyes than coarser fiberes.

5. Ease in Spinning Process

Finer fibers leads to more fiber cohesion because the number of surfaces are more so cohesion due to friction is higher. Also finer fibers lead to less amount of twist because of the same increased force of friction. Which means yarns can be spun finer with the same amount of twist as compared to coarser fibers. Which also means that the yarns will be softer.

6. Uniformity of Yarn and Hence Uniformity in the Fabric

Uniformity of yarn is directly proportional to the number of fibers in the cross fibers. Hence finer the fiber, the more uniform is the yarn. When the yarn in uniform lit leads to other desirable properties such as better tensile strength, extensibility and luster. It also leads to fewer breakages in spinning and weaving. In fact fiber fineness is one of the dominant factor in determining the limiting count to which a yarn can be spun.

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Worsted Yarn Production - Flow Chart

Manufacturing Process of Woollen Yarn

Flow Chart of Woollen Yarn Manufacturing

Common Yarn Faults in Manmade Fibres

Common Yarn Faults in manmade fibres

1. Slubs:

Slub like thick faults seriously mar the appearance of fabrics made from manmade fibres. The following measures can be taken

A. In Blends with cotton

a. properly select the cotton component
b. ensure proper grinding of wirepoints at cards
c. regularly check the ringframe drafting system.

B. In 100% manmade fibres

a. Ensure adequate number of doublings
b. avoid too wide a roller setting and inadequate weighting on rollers.
c. Select correctly the fibres in regard to their compatibility in length.

2. Crackers

This defect is characterised by the cracking sound produced when the yarn is pulled. The sound is produced due to sudden rupture of fibres curled around the yarn.

- Crackers are caused mainly by the presence of very long fibres due to improper cutting of the two.

- They can also be caused due to high vairability in the elongation of the constituent fibres in the blend.

- Ensure wider roller setting in the back zone, adequate roller weighting and avoid too narrow a spacing between the aprons.

- It is helpful to have low roving twist and higher spinning tension through the use of heavier traveller.

3. Neps

This can also mar the appearance of a fabric

- In man made fibres longer and finer fibres tend to produce more neps.
- Other reasons of neps are
- Excessing beating of fibres in the blow room
- Loading of licker-in or cylinder at card
- Blunt wire points on various carding elements
- excessive lap weight

4. Fluffy Yarn

In general presence of short fibres and proneness to static accumulation tend to produce this defect.

The fault can be corrected by maintaining proper atmospheric conditions and reducing the fluff on roving.

5. Smoky Yarn

- The yarn containing synthetic fibres get smoky through long exposure of the running bobbin in a dirty atmosphere in the ring spinning system.

- Installation of smoke filters in H-plant can correct the problem

- Use of roving build can check this defect.

Blending at draw frame

Blending at Draw Frame

This method is normally used for binary blends only. The required blend proportion is adjusted by the number of slivers of each component and the hank of respective slivers.

The fleece blending is done on the blending Drawframes specifically designed for this purpose. They are fed with 16-20 slivers at the back and therefore provide a much greater flexibility as regards the blend ratios.

Advantage

- Easier to obtain uniform blend ratio.
- During opening and carding, optimum settings fro each blend component can be used for better quality of output with less damage to the fibres. 

- Easy working.

Disadvantages

- Difficult to attain random arrangement of fibres in the yarn cross section.
- Additional drawing capacity needed.
- Separate opening lines needed for each component.

Blending of Combed Cotton Sliver and Polyester

Many Indian mills resort to this practice when the humidity control or conditions of machines is very poor.

Advantages
- Produces very intimate blend
- Trouble free running and high productivity at card.
- Less yarn imperfections due to better fibre individualisation because of reprocessing of the cotton component.
- Reduced number of d/f passages.
- Lower end breaks due to fewer slubs.
-better uniformity of dyeing due to more intimate blend.

Disadvantage
- Poor tenacity and evenness in blend yarn.
- High cotton nep content in blend due to reprocessing
- Need of additional b/r and card capacity
- Slightly higher waste in b/r and carding.

Optimum Blending Method of various Blends

1. For blends like P/V , blowroom blending is effective as they need similar b/r sequence.
2. For blending of manmade stack blending method is generally used.
3. The polyester /cotton or acrylic/cotton are generally blended at d/f because cotton component needs a severe opening and cleaning action
4. Where there is a problem of running 100% polyester on card, stack blending of polyester stock and combed cotton may be resorted to.
5. In case of v/c blend, they should be blended at the draw/frame as they need quite a different opening sequence.  

Blending at Blowroom

Blending at blowroom

There are three methods of blending at blow room:

a. Feeder blending

In this method the blends are prepared by feeding different fibres to different hopper feeders with feeds adjusted to the required blend ratio.

The amount of material taken from each bale for feeding these blenders should not exceed 2-3 kg.

This method is generally employed when more than two components are required to be blended.

b. Stack Blending


In this method the blend components from the bale or bale breakers ( pre opened ) are weighed and laid down in alternate layers

This stack which is laid horizontally is then withdrawn vertically for feeding.

Advantage of Feeder and Stack Blending

a. More intimate and homogeneous blend achieved.
b. Only one opening line needed.
c. Provides simplest control on the use of recovered fibre waste.
d. Requires minimum man hours for blending

Disadvantages

a. Difficult to attain uniform blend ratio
b. Demands greater skill on the part of the operator.
c. Labour intensive and somewhat slow.


c. Lap Blending

In this the laps of the components fibres made at the breaker skutcher generally 3 to 4 are blended by feeding them together to the finisher scutcher in the desired ratio.

Advantages of Lap Blending

a. Ensures good blend homogenity
b. Easy to work.
c. Good control on the use of recovered fibre waste.
d. Uniform blend ratio is achieved

Disadvantages

a. Opening line has to be modified to provide for both breaker and finisher scutchers.
b. Need for proper control on lap weights.

Blending-2

How to select Blend Constituents


Selection of Blend Constituents depends upon the following factors:

1. Type of Fibre
- Depending upon the end use of the fabric, blend constituents are chosen.

- For example, it is well known hat a polyester-cotton yarn looks fuller as compared to the lean look of polyester-viscose yarn.

- Therefore for light constructions like shirtings, polyester-cotton blend is used.

- However polyester-viscose blend is preferred for medium and heavy construcitons such as suitings.

2. Compatibility of blend fibres

Compatibility must be there in terms of the following properties:

a. Length and Denier of Fibres:

- As a general rule, these two fibre properties should be nearly the same for all the constituents.
- For example in a viscose rayon cotton blend, the rayon staple of 1.5 denier and 29-32 mm length is generally used since the cotton component used has a denier of around 1.5 and a length of 28mm.

b. Extensibility

- A large difference in the breaking elongation of the fibres in a blend adversly affects the yarn tenacity.

c. Density
- The blend fibres should prefereably have the same density. Any large differences on this account will lead to selctive separation while conveying the blended stock through ducts under the influence of air suction in the blow rooms.

d. Dispersion Properties
- This property describes the ability of an individual fibre to separate from its group and disperse thoroughly within the fibre matrix of the blend to produce an intimate and homogeneous blend.

e. Drafting Properties
- Some fibres like viscose are outstanding it terms of draftability. These fibres, when blended with other fibres act as good carriers to obviate the trouble relating to drafting.

f. Dyeing Properties
- In case the blend yarn or fabric is to be dyed subsequently, due consideration should be given to the dyeing properties of individual fibre components.

CHARACTERISTICS DESIRED IN A BLEND YARN

A. The constituent fibres should be arranged at random in the yarn cross section.

B. The ratio between the blended fibres should be uniform at any cross section of the yarn.

C. There should not be any long-term or short-term irregularity in blend ratio of blended fibres.