Saturday, 7 June 2014

Fulia Cluster



We left for Fulia early in the morning. Passed through Barasat, a place I have heard earlier- and not only heard worked intensively in getting the AW-13 deliveries while I was in Pantaloons. Nice to pass the place with no tension of deliveries on my head. 

Fulia is in the district of Nadia. It is famous for its Tant Sari. Tant means handloom. However, it is specifically used for the cotton Jamdani including Tangail, for which the Bengal Handloom is known for. Have a look at this example



Have a special look at the blue "spot" this is a marka used by weavers to mark off the areas from where to start the butis and is an inherent characteristic of this product.


This clusters deals in Matka, Jamdani, Taant, Silk Viscose and Handpainted Garad or Tussar Saris. Handloom Saris are also woven with Jacquard attachment. Have a look at the above and the Jacquard attachment below. 


The sari is woven upside down with no selvedge control mechanism. Thus one can expect to get uneven selvedge. 



Have seen Yarns of 2/100s, 92s, and 100s DHCR ( Double Hank Cross Reel). Incidently Cross reel hank give better dyeing quality.



Vat Dyes are used. Also cold brand porcion colors are also used in this open dye bath. The skeins are left to dry in the sunlight after dyeing.




This Sari is found wound on the cloth roll, leaning against the wall, adding to the overall beauty of the place. 


An area in the house is marked as the yarn store. One can see the packets of dyed skein lying. 


This is the best part. A Maldah mango tree overseas the courtyard, around which all the loomsheds, dyeing storage and yarn unit is located. We also enjoyed a few fully ripen Maldah Mangos. Apart from that we were offered Lassi,Rosogulla and Chhana Jalebi - a completely new delicacy for me. 


A completely absorbing trip to this cluster. Will take you to my next venture in the incoming posts.

One can buy Tant Saris here

Difference between Muslin and Malmal (MulMul)



Both the terms are used for traditional Indian Handloom Fabrics.

Muslin

As per BIS, muslin is a generic term for a light weight open cloth of plain or plain gauze weave. Normally muslins do not exceed 68 g/sq.m. In some cases grey fabric is used for example butter muslin and cheese cloth, whereas for others (dress material) bleached and dyed muslin is used.

Muslin can be made in the following counts(Warp x Weft - English)/reed x pick( EPI x PPI)/Wt is gm/sq m

60s x 60s / 66 x 58/ 50
64 x 80/71 x55/40
80 x 80 /76 x 73/45
100 x80 /96 x 88/ 48
120 x 100 /109 x 76/40

Normally in count, reed  x pick and weight a tolerance of +-5% is observed. A dimensional change of 4% and a scouring loss of 2.5% is generally the agreed norm.

The fabric should be free of the following flaws:
 -More than two adjacent ends running parallel, broken or missing and extending beyond 20 cm;
- Weft crack or more than two missing picks across the width of the material;
- Prominently noticeable weft bar due to the difference in raw material, count, twist, lustre, etc;
- Noticeable selvedge defects;
- Noticeable warp or weft float in the body;
- Noticeable oil or other stains;
-Noticeable hole; cut or tear up to 3 mm in size;
-Smash rupturing the texture of the fabric;
- Undressed snarls noticeable throughout the piece;
- Conspicuous gout due to foreign matter usually lint or waste woven into cloth;
- Conspicuous broken pattern; and
- Any other flaw which would mar the appearance or affect the serviceability or durability of the cloth.

Malmal

Malmal is generally applied to fine cotton fabric slightly heavier than muslin.

Malmal can be made in the following counts(Warp x Weft - English)/reed x pick( EPI x PPI)/Wt is gm/sq m

100x100/ 81 x 81/39
100 x 100/101 x 101/48
80 x 80/68 x 68/42
80 x 80/81 x 78/49
60 x80/68 x 68/50
60 x80/73 x 83/56
60 x60/71 x60/54
60 x60/81x71/62

Tolerance is generally 5% in both directions.

Dimensional change is 5% from loomstate and 4% from processed. Scouring loss is 6% in loomstate and 5% in processed.

Watch this classic song from Lata Mangeshkar related to Malmal


And if you are a fan of Honey Singh, here is his rap in this Song "Kurti Malmal di.."


Friday, 6 June 2014

Glossary of Textile Fabrics Including Indian Traditional Fabrics



In the Glossary Published by BIS, Indian Traditional Fabrics are included such as:

Adhi
Angocha
Bafta
Bleeding Madras
Charsuti
Chindis
Churnari
Dedsuti
Doria
Dosuti
Ghicha-Ghicha
Ghicha-Noil
Jamdani
Jhoot Silk Coating
Jhuri-Jhuri
Kamdani
Katan
Katia
Kerial
Khadi
Khes
Kinkhab
Kora Cloth
Kosa
Lungi
Makhmal
Malida
Malmal
Matka
Muga

Alternatively these can be obtained from here. 

Cloth Required for Different Ethic Dresses



This Website gives the cloth required for different ethnic dresses. The details of the following dresses are mentioned.

1. Plain Umbrella Kurta/A-line Kurta
2. Fitting Kurta
3. Bangle Sleeves
4. Raglan Kurta
5. Salwar
6. Kali Salwar ( Joint on the Salwar)
7. Churidar.
8. Patiala Salwar
10. High Neck Kurta
11. Front Back open neck Kurta
12. Princess line Kurta
13. Kurtas having 4 Kalis below waist
14. Kurtas having max Kalis
15. Lucknawi Style Kurta
16. Lucknawi Style Kurta ( Kalis)
17. Overlap Kurta
18. Full Umbrella Kurta

Alternatively you can click here

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