Motifs of Jodhpur Printing- Phetiya ( Fetia, Phetia)

Phetiya is one of the most popular motifs used in block printing in Jodhpur. There are various variations of Phetiya are available. Some of them are as given below:

1. Panihari Phetiya

In this motif, Indigo and Alizarin are prominent Colors. It is a traditional costume of Sirvi ( Chaudhary) Community in Rajasthan. The word Sirvi means share cropper (A sharecropper is a farmer who doesn't own the lands he farms). Sirvi people speak Marwari. The men wear cotton thread around their waist, called bell or dhaga, having eleven knots. They believe that this dhaga symbolizes their community deity Jagadhamba of Rajasthan.

2. Nanna Phetiya

It comprises of natural colors like Indigo, Alum, Haldi and Alizerin. Availability of good water enhances this kind of block printing. It is a favourite among the women in the Choudhari community who carry these prints in their traditional Ghaghras.

3. Genda Phetiya

The genda print is seen mostly in the traditional dresses of Rabari community. Some natural colors like alum or indigo are used in Dabu technique of printing.

4. Gunda Phetiya

The Gunda Phetiya kind of block prints are vividly seen in the traditional attires of the Mali Jat in Rajasthan. Simple yet unique prints with Shades of alizerin and indigo enhance the simplicity of the fabric.

5. Bavliya or Guddi Phetiya

The Bavliya kind of print is mostly seen in the traditional outfits of the women in the Choudhari ( Godwal)  community of Rajasthan. The prints are made with finely carved blocks using natural Colors.

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How Neel or Ultramarine Blue Whitens Fabrics

What is Neel

Neel is used very commonly in washing of the white clothes. It is interesting to know the chemical and other facts about this chemical. 

Neel is a chemical called Ultramarine Blue. It is a blue pigment consisting primarily of a double silicate of aluminium and sodium with some sulfides or sulfates. It is the most complex pigment found in nature. It is found in the natural state in the mineral of Lapis Lazuli. Now it is also produced artificially. 

The name Ultramarine essentially means "Beyond the Sea", because it was imported from Asia by sea. 

How it Effects Fabrics

White fabrics become yellow or grey after some washing. Since blue and yellow are complementary colors in the subtractive color model of color perception, adding a trace of blue color to the slightly off-white color of these fabrics makes them appear whiter. Ultramarine has a red undertone which means it reflects at both the blue and red end of the spectrum but absorbs only the unwanted yellow component. Most other blues are having green undertone. In addition to absorbing the yellow component they also absorb the red and therefore cannot give such a balanced correction as ultramarine does. 

Ultramarine is a pigment and not a dye. It is insoluble in water and keep itself only by agitation. Upon washing some of the ultramarine particles become trapped in the fabric which gives it blue undertone. Next washing these particles come out and new particles take their place. Thus it is an auto correcting Mechanism. 

If too much of the ultramarine is added, it will give a pale blueness to the fabric, instead of brilliant whiteness. If a rapid correction is required, rinsing with some lime or vinegar will easily remove the excess blue color.  

Particle size is also important. If particle size is less than 1 micron, then in the next washing the particles do not get washed out and blueness keeps on increasing. Ideally a size of 2-3 micron is recommended. 

It should be remembered that Ultramarine improves the whiteness of the fabric, but not the brightness. In fact as it subtracts the absorption of yellow light, it reduces the brightness making the fabric appear dull. 

Brightness can be increased by using some optical brighting agent.

Sources : Wikipedia, 1, 2

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Textile Analysis for Forensic Testing

Textile as used in Forensic Evidence

Fibers represent one of the forensic evidences known as trace evidence.

The forensic examiners must handle a victim with care, to minimize fiber loss. Retrieving the victim's clothing as soon as possible is very necessary to prevent as much fiber loss as possible. Fibers are typically collected using adhesive tape.

The following details are particularly noted when analysing fibers. This helps to determine the source of the fibers.

1. Fiber Type: The presence of less common fibers at a  crime scene or on the clothing of victim or suspect increases its significance.

2. Fiber Colors: It greatly influences the significance of fiber comparison. Fading and discoloration further adds significance to a fiber association.

3. Number of Fibers: The greater the number of fibers on the body of a suspect or victim,  the more is the likely hood of a direct contact between individuals, however converse may not be true.

4. Fabric type: Loosley knit or woven fabric or new fabric shed more fibers.

Source 12


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A Note on Medical Textiles

Textiles act as an interface between man and treament. Depending upon the area of application, the medical textiles are categorises as Non-implantable, implantable and healthcare and hygiene products.

Non implantable material are external to the body, with or without skin contact. It includes absorbant pad, bandages and plasters among others. These material should have good padding characteristics and should be non sticking to the wound. Air and vapor permeability is requrired so that the material is comfortable to the patient. They should have high absorbancy and should be soft and pliable.

Implantable materials are used in place of defective body parts. It includes sutures and soft tissue implants. These materials should have compatibility with the natural body systems. They should be durable and resistant to alkali and acidic media. Of course, they should have functionality for the purpose for which they are applied.

Healthcare and hygine products are not directly used in medical treatment, rather they are used for good hygiene application and healthcare. It includes surgical clothing and surgical covers. They should have high bacterial and viral resistance. They should be hygienic and should have softness and breathablitity. They should have required strength.

Source of image: 1

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