Saturday, 25 December 2010

What is Eli Twist Yarn



Source : www.suessen.com
Eli Twist Yarns are basically Compact Ring Double Yarns, in which doubling takes place in the ring frame and yarn is single wound . The technology is developed and perfected by Suessen corporation.  It is mostly used for high end Shirting Fabric .It combines compact spinning and twisting of a yarn in one single operation. It produces a two-ply yarn with identical direction of twist in both yarn legs. The twist coefficient of EliTwist Yarns is between the twist coefficient of a single yarn and the ply-twist coefficient of a conventional S/Z two-ply yarn. 

It leads to a very smooth structure of yarn, closed yarn surface and circular yarn cross-section. The yarn has a high regularity. It has an extremely low hairiness, especially of long fibers. The yarn has very high breaking load and elongation and very low pilling tendency. It lends itself easily to splicing.

You can read the technical manual here.
 


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Thursday, 14 October 2010

Queries from the Readers



I am normally asked questions from readers, the exact answer to which I am unable to provide.

I have decided to post these questions so that you can help, by giving answer in the comments.

Here are two of the questions:

1. Using Fiber Reactive Dyes on Silk:


I am a Silk Artist and work with pure silk (silk habotai). I've used silk paints all this time and now have decided to use dyes instead. However 'Silk Dyes' are not available where I live and therefore I use Fibre Reactive Dyes. Firstly I used Reactive Dyes with Soda Ash according to the cold water method and found out that it takes off the sheen of the silk and also that it is not very practical for the 'painting' (direct application' method). So I followed the instructions given in Paula Brich's website and used reactive dyes as an acid dye by heating with vinegar. The effect is really wonderful and the colours are so vibrant. but the problem is with the wash fastness: colour washes off even after 10 washes.

I would very much appreciate if you could shed some light on how I could use fibre reactive dyes as acid dyes on silk effectively.

2. Getting the Exact Blend in Polyester and Cotton

I am government supplier so i have to give excat specification fabric as per tender.I have to give Blend 65% Polyester & 35% Cotton or PV Fabric & width 47" Weight 90gram+ per meter. But the problem i am facing is in India mostly 70:30 P/C Yarn is available so i cant supply. So please suggest what i should use in warp & weft(eg:100%cotton warp & weft 80:20 PC)to maintain average blend excat 65:35 P/C or P/V whichever is cost effective at both grey & processing stage. So i just want blend 65:35 P/C or P/V weight 90gram+ as per width 47". Count& rid/pick doesnt matter. So please suggest as soon as possible which is cheapest way.

Incidentally it is the 400th Post. I thank you all for the support and encouragement you have provided


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Wednesday, 29 September 2010

Common Parameters measured in Silk Yarn



Common Parameters measured in a Silk Yarn: An Example

Direction of Twist: S
Average Twists Per Metre: 691.4 Turns
C.V.Twist: 3.09 %
Percentage of Twist Deviation: 1.23 %
C.V.Size: 4.18%
Cleanness: 98.2 Percentage
Neatness: 96.15Percentage
Tenacity: 3.89 Grans/Denier
Elongation: 19.2%
Average Moisture Regain: 10.99%
Grade:***
Circumference of the Swift:*** Inches
Skein Weight:  about 500 grams

To know more about these tests you can click here.

General Denier Qualities in Mulberry Silk

14/16,16/18,18/20,20/22

General Norms for Organzine Twist

z800- Z direction Twist, No. of twists per meter-800
s850- s direction twist, No of twists per meter- 850


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Monday, 13 September 2010

Difference between Tabby Silk and Habutai



Both are plain weave Mulberry silk. Tabby silk is lighter weight of 20 grams. whereas Habutai starts from 40 grams silk and become heavier.

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