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Sunday, 27 December 2009

Micro spinning or How to produce yarn at 40% cheaper than the conventional ring frame

As per the Site of Ministry of Rural Development “This technology is developed by Vortex pertains to the stages preparatory to spinning (pre-spinning). This can be coupled with a conventional spinning frame to produce yarn economically at a scale that is 1/100th of the prevailing scale. The technology integrates the operation of seed-removal (Ginning) with in-situ handling of fibres to produce slivers.”

Microspinning is a process of spinning in which small quantities of yarn can be produced. This is unlike in case of a standard spinning mill where large quantities of yarn need to be produced in order to be viable. In a spinning mill, the use of bales is the major cause of producing large quantities. It is also seen that pre spinning process is the major factor in making the textile mills bigger in size.

Micro spinning process eliminate the use of bales and convert directly cotton picked from fields to slivers. Thus it does away with the process of first converting the fibers into bales and then make it into uncompressed state. It will thus make possible for a spinner to produce as low as 30 tonnes per year of a medium quality of yarn (33s count) and therefore spinning can be brought in line with other small scale processes which can be done in small quantities such as dyeing and weaving. Weaver will get more returns ( about 20%) as a result of inhouse spindles (minimum 8 spindles onwards) the cost of setting up also reduces drastically.

Each microspinning unit from cotton to yarn will cost about 10 lakh rupees and therefore is an excellent investment for a small size entrepreneur. Total power requirement for a 24 spindle unit producing 3kg hank yarn per eight hours is less than 2 KW which is excellent for a power starved country like India. It required as area as low as 500 sq feet and can be installed in the field itself. As far as profitability of the unit is concerned, it is claimed that even at 40% capacity utilization, the profitability of a micro spinning unit will be seven times greater than the average spinning mill.

The possible issue here is the quality of yarn produced by microspinning unit as compared to the mill spinning. But I guess it would be ideal for low speed powerlooms and handlooms and will serve its purpose excellently.

Any success Stories ? Yes, there are many. According to website of Society of Elimination of Rural Poverty “The first unit has been running successfully in Chirala in Andhra Pradesh for the last 6 years and the cloth produced through this process is called “Malkha” cloth. Chirala unit has attained viability and sustainability and is being developed as a resource center for micro spinning and it is producing 1500 meters cloth per month and expected to increase to 1800 meters per month by April 2009”.

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Saturday, 19 December 2009

Direct TV


DirectTV provides television and audio services to subscribers through satellite transmissions. The Services are equivalent to that of many local television services, broadcast television networks, subscription television services, satellite audio and private video services. Subscribers have access to dozens or hundreds of channels.


Small reception antennas are used to accept the services.

Consumers who purchased DirecTV equipment subscribe to various packages of Direct TV programming for which the subscriber pays a monthly fee. A subscriber also can order pay-per-view events and movies. DirecTV contracts with and pays program providers such as cable networks, motion picture distributors, sports leagues, event promoters, and other programming rights holders, for the right to distribute their programming to its subscribers.

All programming distributed by Directv is delivered to its broadcast centers in California, where it is then digitized and compressed. The resulting signal is encrypted, or electronically scrambled, by DirecTV to prevent its unauthorized reception. DirecTV then transmits these signals to several satellites located in stationary orbit approximately 22,300 miles above the equator from where these were directed to individual customer’s antenna.

Tuesday, 15 December 2009

Ringframe Productivity


Cotton Yarn prices are sky-rocketing, thanks to the failure of crops in China and India and rising export demands in developing countries. It is but obvious, that the companies dealing in yarn are making or expected to make huge profits in the coming quarter. The profitability is going to be even more for the composite textile mills where value addition is more. All this is leading to rise in the stock prices of Textile Companies in India and I am sure everywhere else in the world. I am bombarded from friends dealing in share market with requests of how to calculate various indicators to judge the operating efficiency of a spinning organization. One of the question being how to calculate the production per spindle in a ring frame.


Kilogram per spindle depends upon the count, spindle speed, efficiency of ring frame and twist per inch. In general, higher the count, lower the kilograms per spindle. Similarly higher the twist per inch, lower the kilograms per spindle. Ring frame efficiency varies from 90-93%, it decreases as the count increases with about 91% for 20s and 93% for 40s count. A formula for calculating the kg per spindle is given in the second link below.

As a rule of thumb, a mill with an average 70s count will be giving .200 kg per spindle per day, a mill with 35s count will give approx double, that is .400 gms per day. Similarly production in Kg per day for other counts can be calculated.

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Wednesday, 9 December 2009

Textile Used in Trade Displays

It is trendy to use textiles specifically designed to display company information. This is specially useful when exhibiting the company’s products in trade shows and trade fairs. The most commonly used articles of display are trade show flooring, trade show carpets, logo mats and logo canopies.

Trade show flooring is primarily used in trade shows, it comes in a variety of styles and shapes. There is even a line of printed flooring, so that end users can add a logo or message to the flooring.

Trade show carpets are a great help for exhibitors and add to a nice comfortable touch to any exhibit.

Logo mats are primarily used in offices, stores, retail outlets and retail chains. These can be printed in several different ways. Inlaid logos are common and full digital images can be produced.

Printed logo canopies using EZ Up products and other styles of printed tents are used by a wide variety of companies selling products on the go. Great for outdoor events, these canopies are the mainstay of presenters at all types of fairs and festivals.

Needless to say, Textiles customized for the exhibitors can go a long way in capturing the prospective customers in an elegant and non-obtrusive way.

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Sunday, 6 December 2009

Count, Construction and Width of common Cotton Fabrics

Count, Construction and Available Widths of Common Cotton Fabrics

Cotton fabrics are commonly identified by three important technical parameters: yarn count, fabric construction, and fabric width. These specifications are widely used by textile students, fabric buyers, merchandisers, sourcing teams, garment manufacturers, and home textile professionals.

Yarn count indicates the fineness or coarseness of the yarn used in the fabric. Fabric construction shows the number of threads in the warp and weft direction. Fabric width indicates the available width of the fabric in inches. Together, these details help us understand the likely weight, compactness, handle, durability, and end-use suitability of a fabric.

How to Read Fabric Specifications

A fabric specification may be written as:

20 × 20 / 108 × 56 / 63"

This means:

Part Meaning
20 × 20 Yarn count used in warp and weft
108 × 56 Fabric construction: 108 ends per inch and 56 picks per inch
63" Available fabric width

In simple form, the notation may be read as:

Count × Count / EPI × PPI / Width

Term Meaning
Count Yarn fineness or thickness
EPI Ends per inch, meaning warp threads per inch
PPI Picks per inch, meaning weft threads per inch
Width Available fabric width in inches

In many fabric markets, the count and construction may sometimes be written in a different order. Therefore, it is always useful to clearly identify which numbers represent yarn count and which numbers represent ends and picks per inch.

Cotton Drill Fabrics

Cotton drill is a strong woven cotton fabric, generally associated with a firm structure and good durability. It is commonly used for uniforms, workwear, bags, industrial garments, bottom-weight garments, and utility products. Drill fabrics are usually heavier and more compact than light shirting fabrics.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
16 × 12 96 × 48 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"
20 × 20 108 × 56 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"
20 × 16 108 × 56 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"
30 × 30 124 × 64 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"
40 × 40 144 × 72 48", 63", 93", 98", 120"


Linen/Cotton Fabrics

Linen/cotton fabrics combine the natural texture of linen with the comfort and flexibility of cotton. These fabrics are used where a slightly textured, breathable, and natural-looking fabric is required. They are commonly used for shirts, dresses, casual garments, and summer apparel.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
20s × 20s Linen 88 × 64 63"
20s × 16s Linen 72 × 68 63"


Cotton Oxford Fabrics

Cotton oxford is a popular shirting fabric. It usually has a slightly heavier and more textured appearance than poplin. Oxford fabric is commonly used for formal shirts, casual shirts, school uniforms, and institutional garments. Its structure gives it strength, durability, and a characteristic basket-like surface.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
2/20s × 2/20s 84 × 38 48", 63"
16 × 8 84 × 28 48", 63"
20 × 16 108 × 72 48", 63"


Cotton Poplin Fabrics

Cotton poplin is a closely woven plain fabric with a smooth surface and fine texture. It is one of the most common fabrics used for shirts, dresses, uniforms, linings, and light to medium-weight garments. Poplin fabrics usually have a clean appearance and good dimensional stability.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
40 × 40 92 × 88 50", 63"
40 × 40 100 × 80 50", 63"
40 × 40 100 × 92 50", 63"
40 × 40 124 × 64 48", 63"
40 × 40 124 × 72 48", 63"
40 × 40 132 × 72 48", 63"


Cotton Twill Fabrics

Cotton twill fabrics are known for their diagonal weave effect. This structure generally makes the fabric stronger, denser, and more durable than many plain weave fabrics. Cotton twill is widely used in trousers, uniforms, jackets, workwear, casual wear, and home textile products.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
30 × 30 124 × 64 48" to 120"
40 × 40 132 × 72 48" to 120"
40 × 40 144 × 74 48" to 120"
50 × 50 144 × 74 48" to 120"


Cotton Voile Fabrics

Cotton voile is a lightweight, fine, soft, and slightly transparent fabric. It is generally made with finer yarn counts and is used for summer wear, scarves, dupattas, curtains, lightweight dresses, and delicate apparel. Voile fabrics have a soft fall and airy appearance.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
80 × 80 92 × 88 48", 63"
80 × 80 92 × 104 48", 63"
80 × 80 80 × 80 48", 63"
80 × 80 100 × 92 48", 63"


Cotton Satin Fabrics

Cotton satin is woven using a satin weave, which gives the fabric a smooth and lustrous surface. It is commonly used in premium bed linen, luxury sheeting, home textiles, and high-quality apparel. Satin fabrics with higher thread counts are generally denser and smoother, though the final feel also depends on yarn quality, fibre quality, finishing, and weave.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths / Notes
40 × 40 100 × 80 98", 120"
40 × 40 132 × 72 120"
30 × 30 124 × 64 120"
40 × 40 144 × 72 120"
60 × 60 175 × 56 × 2 120" — 300 TC
60 × 80 175 × 50 × 4 120" — 400 TC
80s × 100s 195 × 72 × 4 120" — 500 TC
80s × 100s 195 × 86 × 4 120" — 600 TC
120s × 2/120s 175 × 146/4 120" — 1000 TC


Note on Thread Count

In satin and sheeting fabrics, TC refers to thread count. It generally indicates the total number of warp and weft threads in one square inch of fabric. Higher thread-count fabrics are usually denser, smoother, and finer. However, thread count alone does not define fabric quality. Yarn quality, fibre length, weave structure, finishing, and processing also play an important role.

Cotton Bedford Fabrics

Cotton bedford fabric has a firm and structured appearance. It often shows a ribbed or cord-like effect and is used for durable apparel and furnishing applications. Bedford fabrics are suitable where body, strength, and surface texture are required.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
40 × 40 132 × 72 48", 63"
60 × 60 144 × 100 48", 63"
40 × 40 124 × 100 63"
50 × 50 144 × 72 63"


Cotton Cambric Fabrics

Cotton cambric is a fine, closely woven fabric with a smooth finish. It is commonly used for shirts, women’s wear, children’s garments, handkerchiefs, linings, and light apparel. Cambric is generally finer than basic sheeting and has a neat, compact appearance.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
60 × 60 132 × 108 48", 54", 63"
60 × 60 92 × 88 48", 54", 63"
50 × 50 132 × 72 48", 63"
50 × 50 124 × 100 63"


Cotton Plain Fabric or Cotton Sheeting Fabrics

Cotton plain fabric, also called cotton sheeting, is one of the most widely used basic cotton fabric categories. Depending on count and construction, it may be used for bedsheets, basic garments, linings, institutional supplies, industrial usage, and home textiles. Coarser counts are generally used for heavier fabrics, while finer counts are used for smoother and lighter qualities.

Count EPI × PPI Available Widths
10 × 10 44 × 40 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143"
16 × 16 60 × 60 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143"
20 × 20 60 × 60 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143"
30 × 30 68 × 68 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143"
30 × 30 72 × 68 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143"


Why Count, Construction and Width Matter

The count, construction, and width of a fabric are not just technical numbers. They directly influence fabric performance and commercial suitability.

A coarser yarn count usually gives a heavier and stronger fabric, while a finer yarn count gives a smoother, lighter, and more refined fabric. Similarly, higher EPI and PPI generally make the fabric more compact, denser, and more stable.

Fabric width is equally important. Wider fabrics are useful for bedsheets, curtains, home textiles, and export orders, while narrower widths are commonly used for shirts, garments, and smaller textile products. Width also affects fabric consumption, cutting efficiency, costing, and production planning.

Conclusion

Understanding fabric count, construction, and width is essential for selecting the right cotton fabric for a specific end use. Yarn count affects fineness, thickness, and feel. EPI and PPI affect compactness, strength, cover, and weight. Width affects costing, cutting, production planning, and fabric utilization.

Therefore, these specifications should not be treated as mere numbers. They are the technical language through which fabric quality, suitability, and commercial application are understood.



Friday, 4 December 2009

Fiber Length and Spinning Performance


Fiber length in spinning is important because it influences spinning limit, yarn strength, evenness and hairiness. It also contributes to the handle and luster of the product by influencing the number of turns of twist required. It influences productivity via the end breakage rate and end breakage rate.

In general, fibers less than 4 to 5 mm are lost at the spinning stage. Fibers from 12 to 15 mm do not contribute to strength but only to the fullness of the yarn. It is only fibers greater than 15mm in length that produce other positive characteristics in the yarn.

Fiber length after carding is most important. Conditions at card and fiber characteristics should be such that the fibers survive carding without noticeable shortening in length.

The fiber lengths can be assessed with the help of a staple diagram.

Remember that the fibers in the boll do not show extremely great length differences. Noticeable differences arise even before the spinning starts. This happens due to mechanical working on the fibers at the ginning and
cleaning stage.

Rectangular Staple

Such diagram is achievable with synthetic fibers.
However such lengths can cause problems in drafting as in drafting stage fibers do not move individually but in bunches, thereby producing a high degree of unevenness.

Triangular Staple

It lends itself to better processing than rectangular staple diagram. However, it produces too many short fibers which cannot be maintained under control. Thus it produces hairy yarn.

Trapezoidal Staple
The fibers depicting such diagram are ideal for processing.


Stepped Staple


It indicates that fiber materials of different lengths are mixed in wrong proportions. It has the disadvantage that fibres move only in bunches which produce a high degree of unevenness.

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