Count, Construction and Available Widths of Common Cotton Fabrics
Cotton fabrics are commonly identified by three important technical parameters: yarn count, fabric construction, and fabric width. These specifications are widely used by textile students, fabric buyers, merchandisers, sourcing teams, garment manufacturers, and home textile professionals.
Yarn count indicates the fineness or coarseness of the yarn used in the fabric. Fabric construction shows the number of threads in the warp and weft direction. Fabric width indicates the available width of the fabric in inches. Together, these details help us understand the likely weight, compactness, handle, durability, and end-use suitability of a fabric.
How to Read Fabric Specifications
A fabric specification may be written as:
20 × 20 / 108 × 56 / 63"
This means:
| Part | Meaning |
|---|---|
| 20 × 20 | Yarn count used in warp and weft |
| 108 × 56 | Fabric construction: 108 ends per inch and 56 picks per inch |
| 63" | Available fabric width |
In simple form, the notation may be read as:
Count × Count / EPI × PPI / Width
| Term | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Count | Yarn fineness or thickness |
| EPI | Ends per inch, meaning warp threads per inch |
| PPI | Picks per inch, meaning weft threads per inch |
| Width | Available fabric width in inches |
In many fabric markets, the count and construction may sometimes be written in a different order. Therefore, it is always useful to clearly identify which numbers represent yarn count and which numbers represent ends and picks per inch.
Cotton Drill Fabrics
Cotton drill is a strong woven cotton fabric, generally associated with a firm structure and good durability. It is commonly used for uniforms, workwear, bags, industrial garments, bottom-weight garments, and utility products. Drill fabrics are usually heavier and more compact than light shirting fabrics.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 16 × 12 | 96 × 48 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" |
| 20 × 20 | 108 × 56 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" |
| 20 × 16 | 108 × 56 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" |
| 30 × 30 | 124 × 64 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" |
| 40 × 40 | 144 × 72 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" |
Linen/Cotton Fabrics
Linen/cotton fabrics combine the natural texture of linen with the comfort and flexibility of cotton. These fabrics are used where a slightly textured, breathable, and natural-looking fabric is required. They are commonly used for shirts, dresses, casual garments, and summer apparel.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 20s × 20s Linen | 88 × 64 | 63" |
| 20s × 16s Linen | 72 × 68 | 63" |
Cotton Oxford Fabrics
Cotton oxford is a popular shirting fabric. It usually has a slightly heavier and more textured appearance than poplin. Oxford fabric is commonly used for formal shirts, casual shirts, school uniforms, and institutional garments. Its structure gives it strength, durability, and a characteristic basket-like surface.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 2/20s × 2/20s | 84 × 38 | 48", 63" |
| 16 × 8 | 84 × 28 | 48", 63" |
| 20 × 16 | 108 × 72 | 48", 63" |
Cotton Poplin Fabrics
Cotton poplin is a closely woven plain fabric with a smooth surface and fine texture. It is one of the most common fabrics used for shirts, dresses, uniforms, linings, and light to medium-weight garments. Poplin fabrics usually have a clean appearance and good dimensional stability.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 40 × 40 | 92 × 88 | 50", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 100 × 80 | 50", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 100 × 92 | 50", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 124 × 64 | 48", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 124 × 72 | 48", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 132 × 72 | 48", 63" |
Cotton Twill Fabrics
Cotton twill fabrics are known for their diagonal weave effect. This structure generally makes the fabric stronger, denser, and more durable than many plain weave fabrics. Cotton twill is widely used in trousers, uniforms, jackets, workwear, casual wear, and home textile products.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 30 × 30 | 124 × 64 | 48" to 120" |
| 40 × 40 | 132 × 72 | 48" to 120" |
| 40 × 40 | 144 × 74 | 48" to 120" |
| 50 × 50 | 144 × 74 | 48" to 120" |
Cotton Voile Fabrics
Cotton voile is a lightweight, fine, soft, and slightly transparent fabric. It is generally made with finer yarn counts and is used for summer wear, scarves, dupattas, curtains, lightweight dresses, and delicate apparel. Voile fabrics have a soft fall and airy appearance.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 80 × 80 | 92 × 88 | 48", 63" |
| 80 × 80 | 92 × 104 | 48", 63" |
| 80 × 80 | 80 × 80 | 48", 63" |
| 80 × 80 | 100 × 92 | 48", 63" |
Cotton Satin Fabrics
Cotton satin is woven using a satin weave, which gives the fabric a smooth and lustrous surface. It is commonly used in premium bed linen, luxury sheeting, home textiles, and high-quality apparel. Satin fabrics with higher thread counts are generally denser and smoother, though the final feel also depends on yarn quality, fibre quality, finishing, and weave.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths / Notes |
|---|---|---|
| 40 × 40 | 100 × 80 | 98", 120" |
| 40 × 40 | 132 × 72 | 120" |
| 30 × 30 | 124 × 64 | 120" |
| 40 × 40 | 144 × 72 | 120" |
| 60 × 60 | 175 × 56 × 2 | 120" — 300 TC |
| 60 × 80 | 175 × 50 × 4 | 120" — 400 TC |
| 80s × 100s | 195 × 72 × 4 | 120" — 500 TC |
| 80s × 100s | 195 × 86 × 4 | 120" — 600 TC |
| 120s × 2/120s | 175 × 146/4 | 120" — 1000 TC |
Note on Thread Count
In satin and sheeting fabrics, TC refers to thread count. It generally indicates the total number of warp and weft threads in one square inch of fabric. Higher thread-count fabrics are usually denser, smoother, and finer. However, thread count alone does not define fabric quality. Yarn quality, fibre length, weave structure, finishing, and processing also play an important role.
Cotton Bedford Fabrics
Cotton bedford fabric has a firm and structured appearance. It often shows a ribbed or cord-like effect and is used for durable apparel and furnishing applications. Bedford fabrics are suitable where body, strength, and surface texture are required.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 40 × 40 | 132 × 72 | 48", 63" |
| 60 × 60 | 144 × 100 | 48", 63" |
| 40 × 40 | 124 × 100 | 63" |
| 50 × 50 | 144 × 72 | 63" |
Cotton Cambric Fabrics
Cotton cambric is a fine, closely woven fabric with a smooth finish. It is commonly used for shirts, women’s wear, children’s garments, handkerchiefs, linings, and light apparel. Cambric is generally finer than basic sheeting and has a neat, compact appearance.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 60 × 60 | 132 × 108 | 48", 54", 63" |
| 60 × 60 | 92 × 88 | 48", 54", 63" |
| 50 × 50 | 132 × 72 | 48", 63" |
| 50 × 50 | 124 × 100 | 63" |
Cotton Plain Fabric or Cotton Sheeting Fabrics
Cotton plain fabric, also called cotton sheeting, is one of the most widely used basic cotton fabric categories. Depending on count and construction, it may be used for bedsheets, basic garments, linings, institutional supplies, industrial usage, and home textiles. Coarser counts are generally used for heavier fabrics, while finer counts are used for smoother and lighter qualities.
| Count | EPI × PPI | Available Widths |
|---|---|---|
| 10 × 10 | 44 × 40 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143" |
| 16 × 16 | 60 × 60 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143" |
| 20 × 20 | 60 × 60 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143" |
| 30 × 30 | 68 × 68 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143" |
| 30 × 30 | 72 × 68 | 48", 63", 93", 98", 120" to 143" |
Why Count, Construction and Width Matter
The count, construction, and width of a fabric are not just technical numbers. They directly influence fabric performance and commercial suitability.
A coarser yarn count usually gives a heavier and stronger fabric, while a finer yarn count gives a smoother, lighter, and more refined fabric. Similarly, higher EPI and PPI generally make the fabric more compact, denser, and more stable.
Fabric width is equally important. Wider fabrics are useful for bedsheets, curtains, home textiles, and export orders, while narrower widths are commonly used for shirts, garments, and smaller textile products. Width also affects fabric consumption, cutting efficiency, costing, and production planning.
Conclusion
Understanding fabric count, construction, and width is essential for selecting the right cotton fabric for a specific end use. Yarn count affects fineness, thickness, and feel. EPI and PPI affect compactness, strength, cover, and weight. Width affects costing, cutting, production planning, and fabric utilization.
Therefore, these specifications should not be treated as mere numbers. They are the technical language through which fabric quality, suitability, and commercial application are understood.
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