Ahimsa Silk : Is it really Non-Violent

Ahimsa Silk, also known as Peace Silk, is processed from cocoons without killing the pupae inside.

The main Arguments Against Ahimsa Silk are the two:

1. If the pupa is allowed to hatch, they will become caterpillars, it is impossible to feed so many. Thus instead of killing individual caterpillars, the offsprings are being killed.

2. In Eri Silk also, majority of the worms are starved to death after hatching. They are not flying off into woods.

As the Author says "I think it's mathematical sleight-of-hand to justify a high sale price for second-tier yarns"

Please read the full article here.

Similar Argument is given that Recycled polyester is more enviroonmentally sustainable than cotton. Read here


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More about Tussar or Tussah or Tassar

Looking for Tussar, I came across several other interesting features. Some of these are as follows:

1. China exports two types of Tussar Silks: 33/37 D Water reeled and 70 D Dry Reeled Silk. I am just wondering if the "China" that is 50/70 quality that we use in India is dry reeled always.

2. There are 7 grades of quality of Tussar Exported by China, 4A, 3A, 2A, A, B, C and Off grade.


3. The standard moisture regain of Tussar Silk is 10% and density is 1.58 to 1.63 gms/cm3.


4. Elongation at break of water reeled tussar is 23% and dry reeled tussar is 16%.


5. China tussar is different from Indian ( Tropical ) tussar due to the fact the China Tussar the species of the worm is different and fed on "Oak Leaves" ( Also done in Himalyan Regions of the country). Whereas in India it is fed on "Arjun" and "Aasan" leaves. 


6. 8 is the usual number of cocoon filaments to form a single thread. The normal size of the thread produced is 30-35 deniers.


7.Tussar silk is the primary kind in the silk which lustrous,bright,soft handfeel,it has highest wear resistance in the natural faric. The Acid & Alkali Resistance of tussah silk is better than mulberry silk.


However I could not find out how they do dry reeling of tussar. Would require your inputs. 


And yes, I found the Tussar process practiced in Bihar, Bhagalpur. You can click here to find out more.

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Process Control in Textile Chemical Processing

ABS Laboratories is mainly into manufacturing of Sulphur Dyes, Direct Dyes and  Reactive Dyes (HE class) for coloration of textile products. 


What is more important that on their website is a wealth of useful information for textile professional.


You can get characteristic shades of Sulphur, Direct and Reactive Dyes. If you also want to know how to apply sulphur dyes, click here to find out. 


And best of all they have an amazing document on the process control of Textile Chemical Processing. 

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A review of Cotton Spinning- Process Control Perspective

Update Note: This article was originally written in 2011. One of the external reference links used at that time is no longer active. I have retained the article because the broad ideas related to cotton spinning and process control may still be useful to students and textile professionals. I may update this article with fresh references in the future.

Dyeing of Ikat Orissa Yarn with Vat and Napthol Colors

Dyeing of Ikat Orissa Yarn with Vat and Napthol Colors

Vat Colouring of Handloom yarn:

For vat colouring of one muda ( equivalent to 10 hank/ phand locally or 8400 yards) of handloom yarn 2 gms of colour, 8 gms of caustic soda and 8 gms of hydrogen sulphide is added in 1.5 litres of hot water. The yarn is then dipped in the hot water and stirred. The yarn is then drained out of the container and allowed to cool down. It is then washed in cold water and then sun dried.

Napthal Colouring of Handloom yarn:

For napthal colouring of one muda  of handloom yarn 4 gms of caustic soda and 4 gms of napthal is added in 1.5 litres of water and boiled. The yarn is then dipped in the hot water and stirred. Subsequently the yarn is drained out of the container and allowed to cool down. 4 gms of colour is then added in another container having 1.5 litres of water and stirred. Now the napthal drained yarn is dipped in this container. Water is then drained out of the coloured yarn and sun dried.

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Treasure House of Information of Indian Traditional Textile Processes

The website of All India Artisans and Craftworkers Welfare Association (AIACA) is an amazing resource of information about the traditional craft processes. This organization has introduced Craftmark certification. It prohibits child labor, and guarantees that hand-made aspect of the craft processes are used. They have done extensive research in the craft regions of the country and have come up with diagnostic studies on the regions.  All the studies are available on this site for reference. They have also listed, documented and kept for reference the traditional craft process such as Ajrak, Kalamkari, Maheshwari and Chanderi printing. This site is a must for Indian traditional craft enthusiast.

Download Links

1.       Traditional Craft Processes

2.       Diagnostic Studies of Crafts 

3.       Handcraft Sector in India- Frost and Sullivan Study

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difference between Sujni and Kantha

The difference between Sujni and Kantha - Please read this document for full description      

Sujni (Source of Image)

 

Sujni is very similar to Kantha. Because both are made of old materials and

embroider with the thread unpicked from borders of saris. But they differ in techniques:

Kantha (Source of Image)

•  In Sujni, running stitch worked in straight line but in Kantha they use spiral,

circular and conical forms.

•  In Sujni the outline of the motifs are done by chain stitch in dark colour but in

Kantha out lines are done by running stitch.

•  In Sujni the motifs are filled with running stitch and rest of the area is also

embroidering by the running stitch with the same base colour thread but in Kantha only

motifs are filled.

 

Difference between Chanderi and Maheshwari Silk Saris

The Following Text is taken from this document

Difference between Chanderi and Maheshwari Silk Saris

1. In Chanderi saris the designs are created on weft while in maheshwari saris the

designs are created on warp in the beginning itself and the weft remain same.  

2. While Maheshwari saris use around 4000 strings in warp, Chanderi saris use

more than 5600 strings and are therefore much more intricate and delicate.

3. Maheshwari saris normally use more linear patterns and less motifs while

Chanderi saris use a lot of motifs and they are mostly traditional floral.

4. The motifs used in Chanderi saris are more intricate than those in Maheshwari

saris.

5. Maheshwari saris use broad borders which follow patterns similar to those on

the walls of the fort of Maheshwari. Chanderi saris use a variety of designs in the

border.

 

How to get the required width and weight of knitted fabric

A Reader has posed this query to me:

"We have difficulties in getting the required width and weight of the knitted fabric we make. In our knitting machine we are using guage 24, 100% cotton yarn, Ne 30/1.
1) What is the weight of the unfinished fabric we should make ?

2) shall we keep the unfinished knitted fabric (100% cotton) for a certain period of time prior the dyeing or bleaching process ? If yes, then how many hours ?

3) In the calendering process: shall we change the width of the fabric which we recieve from the dyeing process ?? For example, if the width of the knitted fabric after dyeing/bleaching is 88 cm. Shall we keep the same width during the calenderig process or shall we increase it ??

4) Shall we keep the unfinished knitted fabric for a certain period of time prior we transfer it to production (cutting & sewing) ??? if yes, how many hours ??

5) When is the best time for measuring knitted fabric weight ?? Is it immediately after the knitting process and after the bleaching process ?? or shall we wait for some hours or days till the fabric take it's final shape after both processes ??? "


I welcome your comments.

Joy of Kalamkari Handpainting

Read this document to understand the whole process. Buffalo milk is used so that while painting, the color should not spread to the other sites. 

http://www.thechromaacademy.com

The process broadly is the same. First of all Tannin is applied on the cloth by dipping it into myrobalan. Then black outline, filling is done using Ferrous acetate solution using indigenous methods. Then alum is applied on the portion where red is desired. Then solution is boiled with Alizarin to get the red colors. 

After that the cloth is dried, and yellow is applied by mixing myrobalan with Alum. Blue is applied by mixing Indigo solution in an alkaline solution of Lime and Fuller's earth. To get a green, blue is applied on the solutions which are already yellow. 

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