Saturday, 12 March 2016

Indian Traditional Embroidery - How to Recognise-1



A Structure of Traditional Embroidery in India:

The CBSE book on Indian traditional Textile has enumerated a structure to study Indian Traditional Embroidery. I am reproducing briefly the structure

North India

1. Kashida- Kashmir
2. Phulkari- Punjab
3. Chamba Rumal- Himachal Pradesh

West India
1. Gujarat Kutchh
2. Parasi

Central India

1. Chikankari- Uttar Pradesh
2. Phoolpatti- Uttar Pradesh
3. Zardozi- Uttar Pradesh

South India

1. Kasuti- Karnataka
2. Lambani

East India

1. Kantha- West Bengal
2. Sujani- Bihar
3. Pipli Applique- Orissa

The basic Takeaways from this book are as follows:

1. Kashidakari

- Practiced by Mensfolk
- Main stitches are darning stitch, stem stitch, satin stitch and chain stitch

There are three styles of Kashidakari

a. Sozni- Use fly stitch, stem stitch and darning stitch



b. Aari Style- This is also called Zalakdozi



c. Kashmiri Couching


Phulkari

The base material is khadi dyed in darker colors. Soft untwisted "Pat" silk is used for embroidery.

Basic stitch is darning stitch, done from the reverse side of the fabric. Outlining stem, chain and herringbone stitches are used.

One motif is left unembroidered or done in off color to ward of evil. This is called Nazarbuti.

There are two styles of embroidery:
a. Bagh- fully embroidered wrap- used on special occasion.
b. Phulkari- lightly embroidered- Daily use.''

Chamba Rumal

The base is either light mull or heavy Khaddar.
Embroidery is done using dyed, untwisted silk threads called "Pat"
Uses double satin stitch. Produces reversible fabric.


Will continue...

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